Fxdx pulley bolts snapped
#111
#112
#113
Missed a few pages but for my 2017 bike HD call for new bolts and a two stage torque, 60 ft-lbs first go then 80 ft-lbs final.
My tyre fitter's machine couldn't take wheel with pulley so I had to remove it. Following the manual the pulley on my low powered Sportster has been fine.
Screws for my bike are 7/16"-14 x 1-3/4" Hex Head with Lockpatch - https://estore.chester-harley-davids...ch-p69328.html
My tyre fitter's machine couldn't take wheel with pulley so I had to remove it. Following the manual the pulley on my low powered Sportster has been fine.
Screws for my bike are 7/16"-14 x 1-3/4" Hex Head with Lockpatch - https://estore.chester-harley-davids...ch-p69328.html
#114
The following users liked this post:
98hotrodfatboy (07-11-2023)
#115
At the risk of (re)stating the obvious...
If the bolts back out you loose tension between the pulley and the wheel, there is relative movement, and things go to hell in a hand basket.
If you lose tension between the pulley and the wheel, (e.g. powder coating, paint, etc.) then the bolts can back out. there is relative movement, and things go to hell in a hand basket.
There are enough reports of failures with all sorts of bolt locking schemes that lead me to believe it's not a simple as bolts backing out. I believe that absolutely clean mating surfaces and an effective locking scheme are both critical.
A few years back someone (Blue Bob, IIRC) proposed using sleeves to lock the pulley to the wheel. If you're a belt and suspenders and belt kind of guy, I think that's the way to go. Too bad it's not just bolt-on.
If the bolts back out you loose tension between the pulley and the wheel, there is relative movement, and things go to hell in a hand basket.
If you lose tension between the pulley and the wheel, (e.g. powder coating, paint, etc.) then the bolts can back out. there is relative movement, and things go to hell in a hand basket.
There are enough reports of failures with all sorts of bolt locking schemes that lead me to believe it's not a simple as bolts backing out. I believe that absolutely clean mating surfaces and an effective locking scheme are both critical.
A few years back someone (Blue Bob, IIRC) proposed using sleeves to lock the pulley to the wheel. If you're a belt and suspenders and belt kind of guy, I think that's the way to go. Too bad it's not just bolt-on.
The following 2 users liked this post by John CC:
Blue Bob (07-11-2023),
Max Headflow (07-11-2023)
#116
At the risk of (re)stating the obvious...
If the bolts back out you loose tension between the pulley and the wheel, there is relative movement, and things go to hell in a hand basket.
If you lose tension between the pulley and the wheel, (e.g. powder coating, paint, etc.) then the bolts can back out. there is relative movement, and things go to hell in a hand basket.
There are enough reports of failures with all sorts of bolt locking schemes that lead me to believe it's not a simple as bolts backing out. I believe that absolutely clean mating surfaces and an effective locking scheme are both critical.
A few years back someone (Blue Bob, IIRC) proposed using sleeves to lock the pulley to the wheel. If you're a belt and suspenders and belt kind of guy, I think that's the way to go. Too bad it's not just bolt-on.
If the bolts back out you loose tension between the pulley and the wheel, there is relative movement, and things go to hell in a hand basket.
If you lose tension between the pulley and the wheel, (e.g. powder coating, paint, etc.) then the bolts can back out. there is relative movement, and things go to hell in a hand basket.
There are enough reports of failures with all sorts of bolt locking schemes that lead me to believe it's not a simple as bolts backing out. I believe that absolutely clean mating surfaces and an effective locking scheme are both critical.
A few years back someone (Blue Bob, IIRC) proposed using sleeves to lock the pulley to the wheel. If you're a belt and suspenders and belt kind of guy, I think that's the way to go. Too bad it's not just bolt-on.
There is several Harley bolts that are highly suspect to severely advance this problem.
Also I do not believe there is enough material to use bushings / sleeves to effectively lock the assembly together.
Last edited by Blue Bob; 07-11-2023 at 08:28 AM.
#117
At the risk of (re)stating the obvious...
If the bolts back out you loose tension between the pulley and the wheel, there is relative movement, and things go to hell in a hand basket.
If you lose tension between the pulley and the wheel, (e.g. powder coating, paint, etc.) then the bolts can back out. there is relative movement, and things go to hell in a hand basket.
There are enough reports of failures with all sorts of bolt locking schemes that lead me to believe it's not a simple as bolts backing out. I believe that absolutely clean mating surfaces and an effective locking scheme are both critical.
A few years back someone (Blue Bob, IIRC) proposed using sleeves to lock the pulley to the wheel. If you're a belt and suspenders and belt kind of guy, I think that's the way to go. Too bad it's not just bolt-on.
If the bolts back out you loose tension between the pulley and the wheel, there is relative movement, and things go to hell in a hand basket.
If you lose tension between the pulley and the wheel, (e.g. powder coating, paint, etc.) then the bolts can back out. there is relative movement, and things go to hell in a hand basket.
There are enough reports of failures with all sorts of bolt locking schemes that lead me to believe it's not a simple as bolts backing out. I believe that absolutely clean mating surfaces and an effective locking scheme are both critical.
A few years back someone (Blue Bob, IIRC) proposed using sleeves to lock the pulley to the wheel. If you're a belt and suspenders and belt kind of guy, I think that's the way to go. Too bad it's not just bolt-on.
It is the same on my car as well. The mating surfaces are uncoated metal masked off before the paint went on.
Sleeves to stop the pulley from moving which is probably what causes the shearing of the bolts. A pin or two would have the same effect and keep the original bolts and holes.
Last edited by Andy from Sandy; 07-11-2023 at 08:41 AM.
#118
On the wheel and pulley mating surfaces on my bike there is no coatings.
It is the same on my car as well. The mating surfaces are uncoated metal masked off before the paint went on.
Sleeves to stop the pulley from moving which is probably what causes the shearing of the bolts. A pin or two would have the same effect and keep the original bolts and holes.
It is the same on my car as well. The mating surfaces are uncoated metal masked off before the paint went on.
Sleeves to stop the pulley from moving which is probably what causes the shearing of the bolts. A pin or two would have the same effect and keep the original bolts and holes.
#119
#120
The following users liked this post:
NorthWestern (07-11-2023)