Fxdx pulley bolts snapped
#101
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TwiZted Biker (07-09-2023)
#102
WOW, It appears once the bolts were loose or just the torque action of the assembly of the wheel and pulley was so great loosing them that it stripped out the 12 point hex in the locking plate.
Lock wire would not have prevented them from loosing. Although wireing does show some evidence of keeping a bolt tight, it's more to prevent a loose bolt from falling out.
Lock wire would not have prevented them from loosing. Although wireing does show some evidence of keeping a bolt tight, it's more to prevent a loose bolt from falling out.
IF DONE PROPERLY wiring will absolutely retain the torque of a fastener. If I had a dollar for every foot of it I have painstakingly twisted to secure geartrain plates and generator drive flanges in EMD engines, I could probably bribe the owners of this site to silence you.
Somehow, you have crowned yourself the all-knowing fastener king of this site. Just stop.
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TwiZted Biker (07-09-2023)
#104
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Max Headflow (07-10-2023)
#106
I don't have a ton to add to our little mystery here but I'm a bit confused about this locking plate thing. I understand how safety wire keeps bolts from backing out from year of racing. Bolt gets torqued down and then the wire gets put on in a way it pulls the bolt in the direction that tightens them. I understand the idea behind the locking plate. What I'm a bit confused about at least with the systems I've seen is you need to index the bolts. If so then you may need to over torque or loosen the bolt a bit. To me that would give potential for damaged threads or loose bolts. With no cush drive the bolts take a beating on these bikes. I can see then jumping a thread or backing out from vibration. IDK maybe I'm over thinking it or just wrong. Just seems odd to have to adjust back or beyond the torque spec in this case.
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#107
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#108
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John CC (07-11-2023)
#109
[QUOTE=union53;21293050]I don't have a ton to add to our little mystery here but I'm a bit confused about this locking plate thing. I understand how safety wire keeps bolts from backing out from year of racing. Bolt gets torqued down and then the wire gets put on in a way it pulls the bolt in the direction that tightens them. I understand the idea behind the locking plate. What I'm a bit confused about at least with the systems I've seen is you need to index the bolts. If so then you may need to over torque or loosen the bolt a bit. To me that would give potential for damaged threads or loose bolts. With no cush drive the bolts take a beating on these bikes. I can see then jumping a thread or backing out from vibration. IDK maybe I'm over thinking it or just wrong. Just seems odd to have to adjust back or beyond the torque spec in this case.[/QUOTE
you’re right 100% exactly why this time I’m not adding plate. I believe Harley prob just used whatever part number they have for pulley bolts also not realizing the plate is thicker than a normal washer used with pulleys. It’s all coming together the more I sit on this issue …. And it was an expensive issue!!!!!! Moral of the story everyone don’t over look the pulley bolts cause it will cost you!!!
you’re right 100% exactly why this time I’m not adding plate. I believe Harley prob just used whatever part number they have for pulley bolts also not realizing the plate is thicker than a normal washer used with pulleys. It’s all coming together the more I sit on this issue …. And it was an expensive issue!!!!!! Moral of the story everyone don’t over look the pulley bolts cause it will cost you!!!