HD just tell you press the bearing in until it stops.

2. Hold hex end of threaded rod and turn nut to install wheel
bearing. Bearing is fully seated when nut can no longer
be turned. Remove tool.
3. Install spacer inside wheel hub.
4. Reverse tool and install opposite side wheel bearing.

That's just silly!

 

I recently replaced all four on the rear of my bike and went with these from Dennis Kirk.
I purchased a puller/installer that allows pulling the new bearings into place but didnt like how it was too easy for the bearing to go in cockeyed so used the tap in method being careful to avoid preloading the inner race against the spacer tube such that it wont rotate freely. The puller didnt work for the pulley bearings though because the base had nowhere to sit flush. Used the expanding hub to hammer the bearings out though. https://www.denniskirk.com/drag-spec...prd/123082.sku

 

Yeah thanks for tutorials...... I think for over 35 years of installing bearings in all kinds of bikes, I have it figured out...

Despite explaining the basics and your opinions I could care less about, I still prefer a wheel hub shouldered on both sides to seat the bearings for a few reasons....

 

Please note: This post is not intended for highwaymans (he already has 35 years experience and doesn`t need advice from any of us).

Here is a pic of the tools from Georges Garage.

You will see a difference from the pics previously posted, these drivers have a raised area on the inner surface to push the inner race evenly with the outer race.

Even with these drivers, the second bearing should not be installed with a press, or a mallet (like the motion pro tool).

If you use a press, or mallet, it will put a cross load on the inner race of the first bearing when the inner race contacts the inner spacer, unless you have some sort of magic touch that allows you to feel this contact through the press or mallet.

That is why you use the threaded inner rod, the pusher detail, and backing plate, so no cross load is put on the first bearing.