Nope, non-ABS. I'm having trouble finding Timkin's for my bike, is there just a "generic" way to refer to the bearings I need?

 

6205-2rs

 

Thanks for that!

Now, who's a reputable seller? I see prices anywhere from 11 bucks to 36 bucks for each bearing?

 

SKF, NTN or ***

Also NSK

 

When the bearing is being installed there is no load on the inner race it will just follow along so I am not totally sure on that statement.

The crucial thing with the tool from George's garage is the bearing that the turning nut rides on.

I have changed the ABS bearing on my bike, it has cast alloy wheels, and was really tough to get out compared to the plain bearing. I used heat on the wheel to help break it free.

 

When you install the first bearing with the tool, the force is all against the out race of the bearing ad the bearing OD race seats at the bottom of the hole. After installing the center wheel spacer , the tool pushes the outer race of the second bearing until the inner race touches the spacer. The one tool end, first inner bearing race, center spacer, second inner bearing race and other tool end all come into contact and the bearings are set in place. If the tool is is not flat between the inner and outer race, the outer race gets pressed on too far and places a high axial load on the bearing.

Not sure about the second statement.

 

Okay I see now it is for the second bearing although the outer race gets pushed on too far if you are heavy handed and not able to feel it has stopped moving. I do see the advantage of the disk being flat, no question.

Look at the Georges tool and you will see a silver thing next to the nuts. That is a bearing, they call it a NICE bearing. It stops the nut from working against a flat washer that is hard work IMO compared to using that bearing.

 

The stock bearings are of dubious quality. Harley knows it, as they have advised their dealer network. There is an "upgraded" bearing that seems to hold up.

My OEM bearings lasted 6400 miles.

It's also how I found out about the "upgrade."

 

I had to change the front wheel bearings after 20,000 miles on my Sportster. The ABS bearing felt perfectly okay, it was only the plain bearing that was knackered.

 

By the time you feel the bearing stop moving, the outer race is already in too far.

It has nothing to do with being a heavy handed mechanic.

I bet a lot of premature bearing failures have been caused by poorly designed tools or mechanics who just drive the bearings into the wheel without any understanding of how to properly install a ball bearing.