[sm=why.gif]

good luck finding another scooter dude. bye .

 

*Shrug*
My Street Bob vibrates less than my old Yamaha (and my wife's old Kawi). And the Yamaha ran at about double the rpms, so it was really hell, my whole body would be numb after a long ride. What little vibration there is with the Bob, is more a of rumbling sensation than anything resembling a buzz. I was actuallypleasantly surprised at how little the engine effects the bike at riding speed after hearing all the crap about how bad Harley's are supposed to shake (and yes, it does shakes a good bit at idle, but that's kind of fun).

 

My ridgid Evo chopper hit a resonant freq at 70-80mph. Really heavy vibes. Switch main drive sprocket from 20t to 24t. Now I can ride in relative comfort up to 75 or over 90, just not 80-90. I can live with that.

P.S. My wide glide only clunks when the fluid is low.

 

A friend of mine, who has both older evo and shovel, can't believe how bad my 2007 vibrates. The first time he rode it, he said "What the f--k!, I thought the rubber mounts were supposed to reduce vibration, not amplify it!" I must have got a bad one, I guess.

 

FXD Vibration Problem

Having the engine mount preloaded from the factory is most likely the cause of excessive vibration and engine mount failures. When I removed my vapor canister my frame mount pulled forward and the engine mount also pulled away into a stress free condition. Ihad a jack under the engine so that I could screw the bolts in by hand with no resistance which gave me a 3/8" gap that I shimmed with washers. Then I came across the below post and it seems to be a common problem on rubber mounted bikes.

[quote] FXD Vibration Problem Cured - $10 Materials
http://www.****/forums/showthread.php?t=58306

Sorry for the long post, but I have cured my Dyna’s vibration problem for about $10 in materials and I thought others might benefit from my approach.

I have a 2005 FXDI with a HD 95 inch Stage I kit.

Like some others on the Forum, my bike had, what I consider, excessive engine vibration transmitted to the handlebar, foot pegs, and seat. The vibration was especially evident below 3000 rpm. At idle, the handlebars jumped around excessively.

I followed the Service Manual procedure for vehicle alignment in an attempt to reduce the vibration. Alignment includes loosening (but NOT removing) ALL the motor mount attachment bolts, and then running the motor for 5 seconds during which allow the mounts to align themselves to the frame. The motor mount attachment bolts are then retorqued to spec. The procedure helped a little, but did not cure the problem. I also looked at other changes that might address the vibration problem such as “Bar Snake”, different length handlebars, handlebar mount bushings, etc. All these are Band-Aids on the fundamental problem of too much vibration.

A few weeks later I was thinking about the motor mounts and the alignment procedure and was struck by the cause/cure of the vibration problem. Any elastic motor mount, like the Dyna’s, has a limit to how much vibration it can absorb. Engine movement in excess of this limit is transmitted through the frame to the handlebars, foot pegs, seat, etc as vibration.

What struck me was that when I did the alignment procedure and the mounting bolts were LOOSE, there was a gap between the mount and the frame. Tightening the mounting bolts caused my front motor mount to be PULLED forward to the frame as the mounting bolts were tightened. I noticed that when the mounting bolts were torqued, the frame was also deflected somewhat.

THE ELASTIC TRAVEL OF MY MOTOR MOUNTS WAS LARGELY USED UP JUST BY BOLTING THE MOTOR MOUNT TO THE FRAME.

Any movement of the motor would not be absorbed by the mount – the elasticity of the mount is already used up before the motor is even started. Hence any engine movement is transmitted to the frame and is felt as a vibration. This would also explain premature failure of Dyna motor mounts – they are under stress to begin with.

My solution was to shim the gap between the UNSTRESSED front motor mount and the frame. THE ENTIRE INHERENT ELASTICITY OF THE MOUNTS IS NOW AVAILABLE TO ABSORB ENGINE MOTION. MY VIBRATION PROBLEM WAS GONE!

EDIT ---------

Try this site for photos: http://spotks.blogspot.com/

EDIT --------


Picture “A” shows the gap between the unstressed front motor mount and the frame of my bike – it is almost 0.2 inches. The solution is to shim this gap.

Picture “B” shows my test where I used washers as shims to test my theory. Result - excessive vibration is GONE. The bike is very smooth and the handlebars don’t jump around at idle.

Picture “C” shows the final result. I cut some brass shim stock to fit and used longer bolts to accommodate the shim’s thickness.

Picture “D” shows a scissors jack and block of wood I used to hold the engi

 

I am s-o-o-o-o-o looking forward to my next G/F enjoying the whole H-D vibration experience. Takes such a responsibility off me.........

 

Mine rides fine at higher speeds in the right gear.
Over 85 – 90 and it starts feeling a little too unstable.
Never gone any faster because of it.

 

To the guy that is going to get a Beamer, dont do it. Try riding a softail, you will like that much better, I promise.

 

I think you're too late, being that you resurrected a three-year old thread.

 

haaaaaaaaaa!