Hello guys,
I have a 2000 harley davidson super glide that recently had an S&S 509 gear drive cam chest kit installed. This included a set of 509 gear cams, cam plate, oil pump, lifters, pushrods,
tubes and covers, and bearings. I just went for a short ride today on Christmas after getting it back from my friends shop. I'm thrilled with the cams. They produce plenty of torque and its just what I wanted. However, I noticed some pop on deceleration. I'm not a carb doctor, but I suspect that it needs to be rejetted. Just so everyone knows I have stock CV carb with a high flow air cleaner. Other than the modifications in the cam chest and air cleaner the bike is bone stock. Thanks all!

 

Remove the aluminum plug covering the idle mixture needle, lightly seat the needle , then turn out about 21/4 turns. I raised my main needle with two #4 brass washers. This will allow the needle to raise past a small flat area on the needle. My main jet, 2002 is a #190, don't know what's on the 2000. Check all your exhaust connections and clamps, make sure they are tight and not sucking air on decal, that could cause a pop. Starting the engine when warm and modded will be a bit different. I put a 95" kit and S/E 203 cams in my '02 Dyna, did the carb mods several years ago and it runs quite well.

 

Forgot to mention you might be to find jets at a metric bike indy shop. Maybe a #46 idle mixture jet.

 

I'm going to put some more gas in it and go for a longer ride to see if I can get a consistent replication. It was actually quite cold here in Georgia today.
Thanks for the advice I'll go thru the carb like your recommended. Some people have said that the 509 cam required a rejet others have had different results.
Its like you said though the jets may be slightly different year to year.

 

A short ride on a cold day isn’t a good base to start tuning. Needs to be more like normal riding conditions. You’ll just be chasing your tail.

 

Agreed.

I'm not a Keihin guy but it's mot uncommon for carbs to benefit from seasonal tuning tweaks. That said, a cam change should trigger an automatic retune. The exact changes required will vary. Maybe just a mixture screw tweak, maybe a full rejet.

 

Only way to tune a carb is with an EGA and a dyno.

 

Best, not only. There were no dynos or EGA systems for at least half the existence of the carbureted engine. Just sayin...tho I do have a portable WEGO meter for just such work.

You can do a LOT with a vacuum gauge, plug reading, methodical work, and feel of pants.

 

I know this is an older thread but a lot of people will read these looking for answers. So here’s my input.

I’ve got a 2003 FXDWG TC 88 carbureted that I just put a set of Feuling 525 chain driven cams in with a new cam plate and hydraulic tensioners, Feuling lifters and one piece push rods. The bike has a set of S&S grand national pipes and an S&S stealth air cleaner. Everything else is stock.

For jetting I put in a 52 pilot jet and a 200 main along with removing the mixture cap and putting in an easy to turn mixture screw. It has a very slight hesitation off idle if I open the throttle very fast, but it’s liveable as the bike runs great now. I had tried a bunch of different combinations then would put 100 miles or so on it and pulled the plugs till I got to the combination. They are a nice color now, not lean, no carbon and the bike doesn’t pop or backfire. The power over the stock cams is unbelievable. It pulls right through 6000 now, lots of low end torque too, had a nice sight lope on idle.