No. I’m having front suspension done this week and I will definitely bring that up with the shop. Thank you for the advice. I will post the outcome to help future guys with the same issues

 

We must be talking about different things. Sorry.

 

I thought we were talking about metal shards migrating from the primary case to the gear box. If I misunderstood, my apologies for muddying the waters.

Never mind, I get it.

 

I was talking about from the clutch cable cover where the throw out bearing is to the transmission itself


The saga continues. The bike is finally back together after all matters of bs and personal obligations. The last thing I needed to do was adjust the clutch lever and I could test ride her. That’s when I realized that I could back the adjusting nut all the way until it separates and the clutch lever was still loose. I noticed when I adjust the clutch in the primary the new adjusting screw seemed to be out further than I remember. However, I adjusted it per the service manual. Turn screw until you feel slightest touch, back off 1/2, or in my case 3/4 turn.

Any ideas?

 

Yeah, I figured that out... Eventually...




The adjustment under the cover is done with the mechanism completely released, and the lever with the ramps up against its stop. You are making the rod just long enough so there is no pressure on the TO bearing and such that the slightest movement of the ramps will eliminate that clearance and start to compress the clutch diaphragm. The clutch cable must be completely slack and the lever fully to the "engaged" position. You can make this adjustment with the cable completely removed. As the clutch wears this adjustment will need to be redone as the clearance will decrease and the clutch will start to slip.

The cable adjustment merely sets a little play between the lever when completely released and when the cable starts to rotate the ramps. This adjustment will change as the cable stretches. (The clearance will increase, until eventually the clutch will not release completely.)

If you've done the first adjustment correctly and you cannot get the second one (by extending the length of the casing) either the core is way too long or something isn't installed correctly. Are you getting any feel with the lever? Does the clutch release? (I'm guessing no to both questions.)

(You did get the ***** installed in the ramps, right? Can you release the clutch by moving the ramps?)

 

I went into the garage tonight after being out with a buddy. Got down to business and messed with it a bit. After doing some tweaking, pumping the clutch a few times, and readjusting the clutch it sorted itself out. Took her for a ride down the street, ended up being about 15 minutes. Came back only because I don’t have my plate on. Seems good to go. Maybe make the lever a bit tighter.

I appreciate everyone who chimed in and helped me out. Hopefully I can log some miles before Chicago gets too cold and icy.

Good night all

 

Sounds like you finally got it sorted out! Glad to hear that.

If you mean the cable adjustment, just be sure there's enough slack to ensure the mechanism with the ramps can return completely to its stop.

 

Yes sir. I will double check that when I do it tonight.

Jon

 

Realizing this is an older post, but if the Primary is overfilled, i.e. fluid is contacting the clutch plates, neutral is really hard to find. Bike is also hard to back up in gear (parking) and will lurch when cranked. Some manuals overstate fluid amount as much as 4 oz, and some mechanics just dump in a quart and walk off. So check the fluid amount when you change it and see if it was overfilled.

 

Check cable routing, my bar bag caused the clutch cable to bind.
Ever since I removed the bar bag, it's easy peasy to find neutral.