2014 Street Bob nearly impossible to find neutral?
#62
#63
I thought we were talking about metal shards migrating from the primary case to the gear box. If I misunderstood, my apologies for muddying the waters.
Never mind, I get it.
Never mind, I get it.
Last edited by John CC; 08-19-2019 at 03:25 PM.
#64
I was talking about from the clutch cable cover where the throw out bearing is to the transmission itself
The saga continues. The bike is finally back together after all matters of bs and personal obligations. The last thing I needed to do was adjust the clutch lever and I could test ride her. That’s when I realized that I could back the adjusting nut all the way until it separates and the clutch lever was still loose. I noticed when I adjust the clutch in the primary the new adjusting screw seemed to be out further than I remember. However, I adjusted it per the service manual. Turn screw until you feel slightest touch, back off 1/2, or in my case 3/4 turn.
Any ideas?
The saga continues. The bike is finally back together after all matters of bs and personal obligations. The last thing I needed to do was adjust the clutch lever and I could test ride her. That’s when I realized that I could back the adjusting nut all the way until it separates and the clutch lever was still loose. I noticed when I adjust the clutch in the primary the new adjusting screw seemed to be out further than I remember. However, I adjusted it per the service manual. Turn screw until you feel slightest touch, back off 1/2, or in my case 3/4 turn.
Any ideas?
#65
The saga continues...
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
The cable adjustment merely sets a little play between the lever when completely released and when the cable starts to rotate the ramps. This adjustment will change as the cable stretches. (The clearance will increase, until eventually the clutch will not release completely.)
If you've done the first adjustment correctly and you cannot get the second one (by extending the length of the casing) either the core is way too long or something isn't installed correctly. Are you getting any feel with the lever? Does the clutch release? (I'm guessing no to both questions.)
(You did get the ***** installed in the ramps, right? Can you release the clutch by moving the ramps?)
Last edited by John CC; 08-21-2019 at 06:32 PM.
#66
Yeah, I figured that out... Eventually...
The adjustment under the cover is done with the mechanism completely released, and the lever with the ramps up against its stop. You are making the rod just long enough so there is no pressure on the TO bearing and such that the slightest movement of the ramps will eliminate that clearance and start to compress the clutch diaphragm. The clutch cable must be completely slack and the lever fully to the "engaged" position. You can make this adjustment with the cable completely removed. As the clutch wears this adjustment will need to be redone as the clearance will decrease and the clutch will start to slip.
The cable adjustment merely sets a little play between the lever when completely released and when the cable starts to rotate the ramps. This adjustment will change as the cable stretches. (The clearance will increase, until eventually the clutch will not release completely.)
If you've done the first adjustment correctly and you cannot get the second one (by extending the length of the casing) either the core is way too long or something isn't installed correctly. Are you getting any feel with the lever? Does the clutch release? (I'm guessing no to both questions.)
(You did get the ***** installed in the ramps, right? Can you release the clutch by moving the ramps?)
The adjustment under the cover is done with the mechanism completely released, and the lever with the ramps up against its stop. You are making the rod just long enough so there is no pressure on the TO bearing and such that the slightest movement of the ramps will eliminate that clearance and start to compress the clutch diaphragm. The clutch cable must be completely slack and the lever fully to the "engaged" position. You can make this adjustment with the cable completely removed. As the clutch wears this adjustment will need to be redone as the clearance will decrease and the clutch will start to slip.
The cable adjustment merely sets a little play between the lever when completely released and when the cable starts to rotate the ramps. This adjustment will change as the cable stretches. (The clearance will increase, until eventually the clutch will not release completely.)
If you've done the first adjustment correctly and you cannot get the second one (by extending the length of the casing) either the core is way too long or something isn't installed correctly. Are you getting any feel with the lever? Does the clutch release? (I'm guessing no to both questions.)
(You did get the ***** installed in the ramps, right? Can you release the clutch by moving the ramps?)
I appreciate everyone who chimed in and helped me out. Hopefully I can log some miles before Chicago gets too cold and icy.
Good night all
#67
#68
Jon
#69
Realizing this is an older post, but if the Primary is overfilled, i.e. fluid is contacting the clutch plates, neutral is really hard to find. Bike is also hard to back up in gear (parking) and will lurch when cranked. Some manuals overstate fluid amount as much as 4 oz, and some mechanics just dump in a quart and walk off. So check the fluid amount when you change it and see if it was overfilled.
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