Found it... https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...er-kicker.html

 

Appreciate it man. So if I am understanding correctly, tomorrow I should put the cover off on the opposite side of the engine where the clutch cable is and inspect inside there, correct?

 

Don't just inspect, adjust your clutch in there behind the spring.
That was your only problem all along.

People think Oil makes a difference because when you switch the oil that screw moves hairs and/or just needs to be readjusted. Oil has absolutely nothing to do with it.

Sorce

 

I ran to the DMV and transferred the title to my name, then headed home and began messing with bike. Primary assembly is completely off. Pull the exahust off, P/O broke off one of the manifold bolts. Otherwise, removed clutch cable cover, metal shavings and a star washer looking piece was just sitting in there. A few roller bearings in bottom of clutch cable cover. I am currently trying to figure out how to remove the transmission and confirm no damage in there. Yay.....

 

My Fat Bob has been a nightmare to get neutral since day one. (ive owned it since new)

I've found that adjusting the clutch definitely helps but it was often still difficult.

Full Disclosure i am running a Barnett Clutch Diaphragm spring and a ez-pull for the lighter lever pull

About a year ago i was commuting 40+ miles each way in northern California traffic every day on the bike, the Neutral thing started to drive me crazy. Especially with my carpal tunnel condition....

I finally tried out Type F ford ATF fluid in the primary and it was a 95% improvement. It still is tough to find neutral when its good and hot but it is way way way better. (maybe once or twice during a really long/hot and hard ride)

I keep the clutch adjusted, and i run the Type F ATF fluid in the primary and it seems to work really well for me.

 

Like needle bearings? Sounds like bits of your throw-out bearing.
If you're worried about contamination, the good news is they're completely isolated.

 

That does not appear to be the case. The cover that seals the trans / houses the two trans bearing has two oval holes, one at the top and at the bottom, which would allow fluid from the clutch cable cover to drain back into the trans case. This is reaffirmed by the fact that another gentlemen’s thread on here made mention of the same issues, and the dealer wanted to charge him 6 hours to inspect the trans for damage.

Respectfully, Jon

 

???
I had different oils in my trans and primary (color wise). When I drained them there was zero evidence of mixing.

YMMV...

 

I have a 2013 and find it difficult sometimes as well. I have read on some forums that it’s not that uncommon. Some days no problem, other days finicky. Looking forward to hearing if you sort this out. Good luck

 

have you tried changing your primary oil over to Type F ATF?