2014 Street Bob nearly impossible to find neutral?
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I appreciate the in depth reply. I have a Harley standard forward control kit on order. That should solve this issue as well as get me set up the way I want it. Cheers
Originally Posted by WS6 Formula
You have the 2006 and later forward control kit with the original trans shift lever. The 2006 and later forward control kits have a longer front and rear lever. The 2005 and earlier kits have a shorter front lever and use the original shorter rear lever.
Measure your front lever eye to eye, if it is over 6 inches a quick fix would be to drill another hole lower on the front lever (about 6 inches eye to eye), that would work with your original rear lever, just like the 2005 and earlier kits.
I have the 2005 and earlier kit on my 2006 Low Rider.
(4) Front shift lever 33789-03 (about 6 inches eye to eye)
Items mentioned in text, but not included in kit:
(A) Transmission shift lever (use original rear lever 33849-97, about 4 inches eye to eye)
I appreciate the in depth reply. I have a Harley standard forward control kit on order. That should solve this issue as well as get me set up the way I want it. Cheers
A quote below from another thread on how to change the rear trans lever without removing the primary:
Originally Posted by Frozen Crome
I took every ones advice and did it my self. I did not have to split the primary at all. First I took the shift lever off and slid the shaft to the inside and used a pneumatic hack saw with a normal hacksaw blade and guided it with my finger and ripped right through the shaft and pulled it out. I did have to unplug the spark plug wires and move them out of the way. I then loosened the trans shifter arm and with a 90 degree screwdriver I was able to pry the splines open a little bit. I tipped the top of the shifter arm towards the engine and there was enough clearance to sneak it out. The new shaft was already never compressed so I did not have to pry it at all I just put it down in there at an angel and it slid right on no problem and I did not have to force anything it went right together about an hour and a half.
I appreciate the in depth reply. I have a Harley standard forward control kit on order. That should solve this issue as well as get me set up the way I want it. Cheers
A question I have,though, is the shifter arm (part C in the pre-06 diagram, or part A in the 06+ diagram) the same length as the stock mid-control shifter arm, or is it also longer?
A question I have,though, is the shifter arm (part C in the pre-06 diagram, or part A in the 06+ diagram) the same length as the stock mid-control shifter arm, or is it also longer?
Harley calls it a shifter lever. The stock shifter lever is used with the Harley forwards.
A question I have,though, is the shifter arm (part C in the pre-06 diagram, or part A in the 06+ diagram) the same length as the stock mid-control shifter arm, or is it also longer?
Depending on the year, Harley Davidson went to more forward mid controls. Looks like if you have long feet the newer more forward mid control lever may work:
Depending on the year, Harley Davidson went to more forward mid controls. Looks like if you have long feet the newer more forward mid control lever may work:
Thanks. Mine came with mids, which I traded to someone for forwards. The shifter levers were identical, but I think the one between the primary is the probable issue with mine, but I thought mine was already the longer one. What seemed weird to me, though, is that the position of the shaft that goes out through the outer primary, which used to be connected with the mid-controls, but is loose with the forwards, seems to make a difference in how easy it is to shift into neutral, but, since that's no longer connected, it should NOT have any effect. If the top end is up toward the front, it easily goes into neutral, and is almost difficult to get into 1st gear without stomping on it, but if it's fallen back, it's almost impossible to get into neutral, even blipping the throttle.
Here comes the “good news.” I got my forward controls in. I attempted removing the shifter link without pulling the primary. It seems physically impossible to do. So I got a gasket kit and began pulling the primary off. When I removed the clutch adjustment the clutch push rod came with it. It was welded to the adjuster. There are pieces of metal, heat coloration, and damage on both ends of the clutch push rod. I am not sure where to go from here. It would appear I have a far more serious issue. My head is swimming and I have the urge to contact the P/O and give him a piece of my mind.....
Anyone had any knowledge on what I have to do from this point?
08-04-2019 | 10:50 AM
