Hey folks. New to the forum. I did some looking around but either didn't search right or didn't find what I was looking for. I've got an 07 Dyna Super Glide that I'm trying to swap out the exhaust system on. Ran I to a snag with my exhaust header studs. They're rusty, crusty and none too pleasant to work with. I'm wondering if y'all might have some tips for me on removing these studs? There's not much room to drill them out on the front cylinder and the studs on the rear cylinder are just as stubborn but with a bit more space. Thank you all for your help. If you guys can't point me in the right direction my next step is a dealership.

 

Why do you need to remove the studs? Are you able to remove the nuts? I recently contemplated replacing mine with stainless studs, largely for aesthetic reasons (I have polished stainless nuts and flanges), but everyone here rightly pointed out it was a lot of work and risk for something that wasn't very visible and was still completely functional. If you can remove the nuts, hit the threads with a wire brush, spray the cleaning solution of your choice on them, and leave them in place. If you're saying they aren't serviceable for some reason, that's a different story...

 

When I first removed the stock exhaust I wound up rounding the nut on the furthest front stud. Then when I went to put the exhaust on without changing the studs the nut on that same stud wound up rounding over despite using the proper tools and everything. Also I've already got the inner stud on the front cylinder changed out. It came with the nut when I went to remove the new exhaust. So as I said they're old rusty and pretty damn crusty. Not useable on the front side. I might get away with it on the back but for the sake of consistency I'd like to change the other three.

 

One of my front studs recently came off with the nut too... I removed the nut, cleaned up the stud, and double nutted it to replace. I understand your desire to replace them. I kick myself regularly for not doing so a couple of years ago when my heads were off. That was dumb! But they clean up pretty well without much work... Spray something like a good penetrating oil on them and brush them. You can even use a little bit of exhaust-rated anti-seize if you like. Definitely replace the nuts. If you really want to replace them, you can try a bunch of things... Really soak them with penetrating oil, tap with hammer, let sit for a bit... Inflict heat... However you prefer. Then double nut and see if they budge... I tried... As soon as I felt like it may not end well, I gave up! I REALLY don't want to be extracting broken studs on an otherwise rideable bike...

But you may luck out! I still think about it sometimes, but I always force myself to think of the downside too. Then I stop thinking about it.

Welcome to the forum!

 

If you're rounding the nut, that would seem to indicate you have a problem with the threads. If so, a thread chaser die might easily solve the problem. Or. do I misunderstand the issue?

Pulling a steel stud out of an aluminum head often rivals Pandora's Box...

 

Thanks for the ideas and for welcoming me to the forum. Hadn't thought about using a mallet on them. I'll have to find mine. I know mine need to go. I've used a set of locking pliers on the front one along with PB Blaster penetrating oil on it and the other studs so they're pretty well marred at this point.

 

The stud itself is original to the bike and has seen over 50k miles. It's seen it's fair share of use so to me it's time for them to come out. Hopefully they don't snap in the mean time. If you've got any ideas I'm all ears.

 

LP torch the stud for a good minute then turn with vices.

 

If you've buggered the threads with vice grips, then you're right, it probably has to go. If all else fails, TIG weld a nut on the end of the stud. Get it good and hot (red) in the process. The heat will disrupt the corrosion and its grip on the stud and head. As it cools, wipe a wax candle along the junction between the stud and the head. The cooling stud will contract faster then the head and draw the wax down the threads. Unscrew the stud as it cools. If the threads in the head are damaged, install a helicoil before you install the new stud.

 

If you get to thread repairs in the head, a Time-Sert is easier for a "novice: to use ... If you're going to weld a nut on the stud it would be advise to seek a very good ground and also to unhook the negative battery cable and sheild the end so that it can't "re-ground" itself while you're welding ... An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure ... Also remember ... patience, patience, patience


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