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2015 FXDL not starting

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Old 11-22-2018, 01:21 PM
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Default 2015 FXDL not starting

My 2015 FXDL (Low Rider) will not crank more than maybe a 1/4 second and then it makes the sound like a low battery. I purchased a new battery and the same thing happens. If I try a second time on the start button it just makes the sound unless I fully turn off the motorcycle, then it does about a 1/4 second crank followed by the buzz.

The diagnostics are reporting BCM codes:
B2112-Accessory output shorted high
B2151-Left turn signal output open
B2223-Rear brake switch shorted low (light on)
B2262-Front brake switch stuck
B2271-BCM voltage low

followed by PN (part number) 69994-12b which matches up with the part number for the BCM.

My turn indicators are working correctly. My brake light is working correctly.

After checking and writing down the codes (which have been reported to the dealership previously and they said not to worry it is because of the bike mods), I cleared the codes and tried starting again. Still no joy.

Modifications to my bike are V&H Shortshot pipes, V&H high flow air, tuned with V&H Fuelpak III, Daymaker headlight, Custom Dynamics turn indicators with LED running lights, Garmin Roadtest 665LM GPS/Sirius radio, an integrated tail light/turn signal (I think Custom Dynamics), a Rocky Mountain Tracking GPS (satellite) tracking system (unplugged) and some sort of electrical load leveler (I think that is what the dealership called it) recommended by the dealership for the changes in my lighting and GPS.


 
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Old 11-22-2018, 04:59 PM
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Ok, why did you replace the battery?

1st step with any electrical issue is to check the whole system, stator, regulator and battery. With the battery you need to have it load tested. Once you rule out the charging system then you can look for other issues...

part of this check is the battery cables, then can and do vibrate loose, they can also crack. Make sure they are clean and tight.

 
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Old 11-22-2018, 06:03 PM
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I just installed a new battery, yesterday. The terminals cables are tight.

I am not sure how to test the charging system if the bike will not turn over except one quick jump followed by the buzz sound of a low battery from the solenoid when I press the start button the first time each turning on of the "ignition" switch. As I said it makes part of a crank for less than a 1/2 second and I am guessing closer to a 1/4 second then the buzz.
 
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Old 11-22-2018, 08:05 PM
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Information below is what I have found so far from the Harley-Davidson shop manual for Dyna Models 2015 Harley-Davidson Electrical Diagnostic Manual.

B2151-"Left rear turn signal output open", I have checked may well be due to the integrated LED tail light/turn indicator. Per section 5.6 on page 5-21, "DTC B2151 or B2154 [Left rear turn signal output open] will be set if the corresponding rear turn signal circuit draws less than 120 milliamps." I am not sure why I only get the reading for the left as the rear left and right turn signal, the tail light, and the brake light are all one item and I would expect similarly made even if the current path is slightly different. The right turn indicator comes off pin K2 of the BCM and the left comes off pin K4 of the BCM. The ground wire is the same from left and right front and rear (all 4) lights. Information in brackets quoted from page but not part of the quoted information not in the brackets.

B2223-"Rear brake switch shorted low (light on)" Per section 5.8 on page 5-31 This DTC "is set when the brake switch input circuit is grounded for 120 seconds and the vehicle speed is above 45 mph (72 km/h)". It is possible my foot may ride the rear brake slightly but as I have 30K miles on the bike without brake problems I am not sure that is so, also my foot turns out a fair amount and usually when applying the brake only a small corner of the brake pedal is actually touched by my foot for the braking. I would actually expect this more from the front brake as I ride for a bit after a braking with my hand (until I notice) still on the brake lever, though not retracting it (bad habit from years ago). Information in brackets quoted from page but not part of the quoted information not in the brackets.

B2262-"Front brake switch stuck" Per section 5.9 on page 5-35 "For DTC B2262 and B2250 [Clutch switch stuck] to be set, the vehicle has to be in operation for more than two minutes at speed above 30 mph (48km/h). Historic codes may indicate the rider continually applies the brake or clutch. For example, coast downhill with the clutch lever pulled in for more than two minutes will set codes." As stated above this one I definitely see me causing, though working on it.

B2271-"BCM voltage low" Per section 3.11 page 3-36 "'The BCM monitors [259] terminal 1 for battery power. DTC B2271 is displayed when battery voltage is less than 9.0V." Possible as something is draining draining the battery. Even the new battery needed to be charged after sitting a while.

B2112-"Accessory output shorted high" Per section 5.1 on page 5.1 "The accessory circuit normally has power when the IGN is ON or in the ACC positions. If the accessory circuit has power when the IGN is OFF, then DTC B2112 will set." Something is draining the battery when the ignition is off is what this DTC is saying and that matches up with B2271 above. The time is 8:02pm, I have just checked the voltage on the battery and it came in as 12.86 volts. I will check the voltage in the morning. There is no battery tender on the bike right now or through this night. Oh and I checked the battery I replaced. The voltage on it is 12.46 volts, it was not bad.

No more information at this time.
 
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Old 11-23-2018, 11:01 AM
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I had the old battery on tender last night and it is now at 12.98V. The battery in the bike has dropped form 12.86V to 12.62V. I did both tests at approximated 10:10am.

I will be putting the new battery back on tender.

Interestingly per the HD 2015 Dyna Electrical Manual, a battery is at 100% charge at 12.7V, 75% at 12.6V, 50% at 12.3V, 25% at 12.0V and 0% at 11.8V. (Section 3.1, page 3.1).

I called the dealership, it might be covered by Extended Service Plan (ESP, basically a warranty that costs) through HD.
 
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Old 11-23-2018, 01:19 PM
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Trying to start followed by clicking is usually a low battery, but can also be caused by a bad connection somewhere close to the battery. Check the other end of each battery cable to be sure those connections are clean and tight as well.
 
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Old 11-24-2018, 05:47 PM
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Again, why did you replace the battery? Usually you replace the battery when you know it’s bad, usually after you load test it.

Was there any work done to the bike prior to these problems?

also if you have warranty why fool around with it, .....
 
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Old 12-14-2018, 10:38 PM
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I had Gateway Harley-Davidson pick up the bike. They ran full electrical diagnostics they told me and the results were the NEW battery from Advance Auto Parts was bad. Got a new battery from the dealership and the bike is running great again. Advance Auto Parts did refund the full price.
 
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