Clutch Issue After Stupidity
#1
Clutch Issue After Stupidity
Hey all. Starting with the fact that yes I did a burnout on my 2007 street bob. I know with stupidity there are much more possible consequences. Im not looking for the classic “well don’t burn out” answers. Just curious as to something
I was riding through the state park just my buddy and I and we were basically just riding the park. I haven’t had the bike for long and wanted to see if I could burnout. Did a couple. Of like 3 seconds. No big deal. And then we proceeded to keep going through park. However, immediately my bikes clutch wouldn’t engage. I was in first gear and it was as if I was in neutral. Same for all gears. Bike wouldn’t pull in any gear. I was thinking this will be fun I’m stuck in a state park with absolutely no people. Anyway got a hold of the rangers and asked him to bring whatever tools he could find. With a couple Allen wrenches and adjustable wrenches I took the derby cover off, readjusted the clutch, in the primary and the cable like you’re supposed to or whatever and the bike was back to normal. Rode almost an hour home with no issues at all in any gear. Ran perfect. Just curious as to why this happened? Or has it happened to anyone else before? Or is my clutch weak and going to need to be replaced soon? Thanks in advance
I was riding through the state park just my buddy and I and we were basically just riding the park. I haven’t had the bike for long and wanted to see if I could burnout. Did a couple. Of like 3 seconds. No big deal. And then we proceeded to keep going through park. However, immediately my bikes clutch wouldn’t engage. I was in first gear and it was as if I was in neutral. Same for all gears. Bike wouldn’t pull in any gear. I was thinking this will be fun I’m stuck in a state park with absolutely no people. Anyway got a hold of the rangers and asked him to bring whatever tools he could find. With a couple Allen wrenches and adjustable wrenches I took the derby cover off, readjusted the clutch, in the primary and the cable like you’re supposed to or whatever and the bike was back to normal. Rode almost an hour home with no issues at all in any gear. Ran perfect. Just curious as to why this happened? Or has it happened to anyone else before? Or is my clutch weak and going to need to be replaced soon? Thanks in advance
#2
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Sandy Eggo's North County
Posts: 14,895
Received 5,748 Likes
on
3,108 Posts
How many miles are on the clutch? While "3 seconds" of abuse isn't enough to ruin a new clutch, you may have been on the last few miles of the clutch already. Especially if the topend is built.
The only thing I can think of that could have happened is that the clutch overheated, then cooled and returned to normal service.
A few "burn-out" tips~
1. Get off of the seat.
2. Use your thighs to correct the bike's lean or lateral movement.
3. Use water or sand or something to get the initial break of traction threshold lower. (This will keep your clutch happier, longer.)
4. Don't attempt with a hot woman on the pillion.
5. Don't do your first burn-out ever in front of thousands of people. (Just don't.)
6. Some use a curb to stabilize the front. (Do this if you aren't used to using your front brake while working the throttle.)
7. Once the wheel gets spinning after a few seconds, you'll notice the threshold of traction may change. (It should lessen.)
8. If you enter a "burn-out" contest, plan on blowing your tire for the win. (Have another way to get home, unless there's a tire guy right there.)
9. I would suggest not attempting a burn-out if you have a laced rear wheel. (It's just not good for the wire spokes.)
After you do the burn-out, your engine may likely be "superheated." Do what you can to get some cool air over it pronto. Engine's don't like heat. Especially modded one's.
Here you go...
The only thing I can think of that could have happened is that the clutch overheated, then cooled and returned to normal service.
A few "burn-out" tips~
1. Get off of the seat.
2. Use your thighs to correct the bike's lean or lateral movement.
3. Use water or sand or something to get the initial break of traction threshold lower. (This will keep your clutch happier, longer.)
4. Don't attempt with a hot woman on the pillion.
5. Don't do your first burn-out ever in front of thousands of people. (Just don't.)
6. Some use a curb to stabilize the front. (Do this if you aren't used to using your front brake while working the throttle.)
7. Once the wheel gets spinning after a few seconds, you'll notice the threshold of traction may change. (It should lessen.)
8. If you enter a "burn-out" contest, plan on blowing your tire for the win. (Have another way to get home, unless there's a tire guy right there.)
9. I would suggest not attempting a burn-out if you have a laced rear wheel. (It's just not good for the wire spokes.)
After you do the burn-out, your engine may likely be "superheated." Do what you can to get some cool air over it pronto. Engine's don't like heat. Especially modded one's.
Here you go...
Last edited by NORTY FLATZ; 10-19-2018 at 06:50 PM.
#3
Hahahaha. Much thanks for the quick reply with some helpful tips. As far as I know it’s the original clutch. Bike is 07 with 18000 miles. I think it’s fine because it was perfect after I readjusted it. Maybe it just got stuck. Who knows. I’m pretty sure it’s just because I suck at burnouts.
#4
Two things could have happened... Yes, your clutch got really hot, which will affect the friction properties of the plates... Also, you may have burned a thousand miles worth of friction material off the plates, requiring an adjustment to make up for the lost material.
Honestly, I think the stock clutch plates are really pretty robust and last a long time, so you may still have a lot of life left.
BUT... Definitely adjust it again, exactly as spelled out in the manual, when everything is completely cold. Your current adjustment may be fine for now, but it also may start to slip again. Adjusting the clutch "hot" gives a false measurement... Basically, the screw will sometimes thread further in before seating than it will when cold. When it cools off, it's now adjusted too tight which could (not definitely) result in a slipping clutch again.
Nothing wrong with burnouts, if you enjoy them and you aren't risking hitting anyone... As long as you're okay with the "abuse" factor...
Honestly, I think the stock clutch plates are really pretty robust and last a long time, so you may still have a lot of life left.
BUT... Definitely adjust it again, exactly as spelled out in the manual, when everything is completely cold. Your current adjustment may be fine for now, but it also may start to slip again. Adjusting the clutch "hot" gives a false measurement... Basically, the screw will sometimes thread further in before seating than it will when cold. When it cools off, it's now adjusted too tight which could (not definitely) result in a slipping clutch again.
Nothing wrong with burnouts, if you enjoy them and you aren't risking hitting anyone... As long as you're okay with the "abuse" factor...
Last edited by F86; 10-19-2018 at 10:24 PM.
#5
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: along the shore of Mishigami
Posts: 15,720
Received 4,798 Likes
on
2,539 Posts
#6
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Sandy Eggo's North County
Posts: 14,895
Received 5,748 Likes
on
3,108 Posts
Clutch is all the way out, once you're spinning. And yes, shifting during your "spin" requires very fast shifting without using the clutch. Just a slight reduction of throttle for a split second allows a shift to occur. Then back into the throttle, hard. I've seen bikes go thru all the gears in 4 or 5 seconds to blow the tire. Takes about 30 seconds of 150mph wheel speed to blow a tire. But beware, it does superheat your engine, so keep an eye on oils and everything else as your motorcycle can tell you if there's something amiss.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Sandy Eggo's North County
Posts: 14,895
Received 5,748 Likes
on
3,108 Posts
The following users liked this post:
heavyd1 (10-24-2018)
#9
#10