First off I've changed more brakes on more types of vehicles(including aircraft) than I can remember, but never on my '04 wide glide, which doesn't have floating calipers like the newer bikes and therefore you don't remove the caliper, you slide the pads out of both sides of the caliper. But of course you have to bottom out the pistons somehow but since you can't remove the caliper it's not exactly like you can take a C-clamp to it like you would a normal caliper. So the manual says that you use SOMETHING to pry between the worn pad and the ROTOR to push the pistons back. I'm curious WHAT exactly you use so that you don't score the ****ing **** out of the rotor. Obviously nothing metal. But it takes a bit of force to retract the pistons, so what is strong enough but won't damage the rotor?

Also, anyone know how many years they used this (stupid) design?

 

Just done the rears on my buddy's 05 RK. Same type of caliper. Wrap a flathead screwdriver with electric tape and be gental. We had no issues with scratching or scoring the rotor, if you lay flat on your back and look up you'll have a better view of the caliper pistons btw.

 

Bronze drift punch or pry bar. There are quite a few fairly hard "non-sparking" tools for use around flammables. 7075 or 6061 aluminum, bronze, brass, copper, carbon fiber, glass filled nylon, delrin, various hard woods, etc. Use your imagination.

 

Thanks guys. I'd be curious to know what they do at the dealers since they must do these all the time. Guessing they have some specialized $100 brass pry bar.

 

I'm going to guess they use a screwdriver and avoid telling anyone exactly how they do it.

 

Loosen the rear wheel while the bike is up on the lift. This will allow you to push and pull the Caliper to the left and right this compressing the Caliper pistons.

Then remove your brake pad pins.

Clean the pins and I add a dab of whee bearing grease to them

Then put in the exhaust side pad and start your pins. Then follow up with your primary side and push the pins in the rest of the way.

Tighten everything up and wipe down your rotor with brake clean.

Done

 

Yeah, see I was wanting to avoid the lift and loosening the axle part. I'll just find something soft, yet strong to pry with. Thanks though.

 

I usually clean the pistons, paint brush, Simple Green, rinse and blow off with a electric leaf blower. Put a straight edge screwdriver in between the pad and rotor and twist the driver a little bit at a time on each side of the pad. I never scratched the rotor, even if I did it would probably wear off on the next ride.


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Well, now I know how rotors get "warped..."

 

It takes a lot more than that to warp a rotor.