FXDF trees on a FXDB
#41
Personally, I would only be comfortable buying after I'd done a mock-up with the calipers, rotors, sliders, and wheel in place.
With the stack-up and manufacturing variance, I suspect you're going to need a selection to get it right. If you're in a hurry, order two of each and return the unused.
.020" from nominal in any one location shouldn't be an issue, but those stack-ups will kill you.
Sorry I can't be more precise. I laid mine out in CAD and still had to adjust once I put it all together on the bike.
With the stack-up and manufacturing variance, I suspect you're going to need a selection to get it right. If you're in a hurry, order two of each and return the unused.
.020" from nominal in any one location shouldn't be an issue, but those stack-ups will kill you.
Sorry I can't be more precise. I laid mine out in CAD and still had to adjust once I put it all together on the bike.
Also in a thread or two I saw where people said to mock them up first using pvc pipe but many people said doing so really wasn't nessisary because it is a fairly common conversion using fairly common parts.
I am not in a rush and I have no issue mocking it up first but do you think the sizes of the spacers will vary from bike to bike?
Last edited by Valleyofthegun; 06-04-2018 at 04:55 PM.
#42
The sizes should be consistent from bike to bike as long as all the affecting parts are identical. Change one piece of the puzzle and everything goes right out the window.
I wouldn't use a hand grinder or sander to alter spacer thickness. You will get taper and unevenness that will cause rotor wobble or bearing loading problems. Better to find a local job shop to put them on a surfacer or lathe.
I get kinda **** about this stuff so there may be more practical ways to get good enough.
I wouldn't use a hand grinder or sander to alter spacer thickness. You will get taper and unevenness that will cause rotor wobble or bearing loading problems. Better to find a local job shop to put them on a surfacer or lathe.
I get kinda **** about this stuff so there may be more practical ways to get good enough.
#43
The sizes should be consistent from bike to bike as long as all the affecting parts are identical. Change one piece of the puzzle and everything goes right out the window.
I wouldn't use a hand grinder or sander to alter spacer thickness. You will get taper and unevenness that will cause rotor wobble or bearing loading problems. Better to find a local job shop to put them on a surfacer or lathe.
I get kinda **** about this stuff so there may be more practical ways to get good enough.
I wouldn't use a hand grinder or sander to alter spacer thickness. You will get taper and unevenness that will cause rotor wobble or bearing loading problems. Better to find a local job shop to put them on a surfacer or lathe.
I get kinda **** about this stuff so there may be more practical ways to get good enough.
Ya if I buy them and I had to shave some off I wouldn't sand them. I would turn them down on a lathe.
#44
#45
Yes the rotor spacer is a bit more in depth but still nothing too crazy.
#46
#47
As far as the width, if I end up buying the Vulcan spacers I planned on buying bigger and turning them down to the correct width on a lathe.
Last edited by Valleyofthegun; 06-04-2018 at 08:41 PM.
#48
Yes, but you're looking at Vulcan spacers with possible out of spec thicknesses, correct?
If the kits with the correct spacers are readily available, why even mess with piecing together sub-optimal stuff from Vulcan? Just the axle? ****, buy the kit and sell the spare axle.
ETA: if you're going to machine stuff, again, why bother with Vulcan. Just have your buddy with the CNC cut them from raw stock. He probably has drops and scrap from which to start for nearly zero cost. I feel like I'm missing something.
If the kits with the correct spacers are readily available, why even mess with piecing together sub-optimal stuff from Vulcan? Just the axle? ****, buy the kit and sell the spare axle.
ETA: if you're going to machine stuff, again, why bother with Vulcan. Just have your buddy with the CNC cut them from raw stock. He probably has drops and scrap from which to start for nearly zero cost. I feel like I'm missing something.
Last edited by cggorman; 06-04-2018 at 08:51 PM.
#49
I don't recall making this statement, but I could be wrong. I believe I was attempting to say that you should just use a Wide Glide front 21" wheel to ease all the additional work needed to use a stock hub. As for the Wide Glide vs Fat Bob tree, it is really up to what you are seeking. The 21" with the wide Glide tree will keep the bike somewhat near stock height in the front because the added rake pushes the tire forward, but could effect your trail numbers. But the 21" with the Fat Bob trees would bring the tire closer to the frame increase the height of the front end due to increased tire diameter compared to the stock 19". When I ran the 21" with the Fat Bob trees, I raised the legs in the trees pinch points about 3/4" to level the bike out. and no, I wouldn't use the wide glide trees, I am not a fan of the increased rake.
#50
Yes, but you're looking at Vulcan spacers with possible out of spec thicknesses, correct?
If the kits with the correct spacers are readily available, why even mess with piecing together sub-optimal stuff from Vulcan? Just the axle? ****, buy the kit and sell the spare axle.
ETA: if you're going to machine stuff, again, why bother with Vulcan. Just have your buddy with the CNC cut them from raw stock. He probably has drops and scrap from which to start for nearly zero cost. I feel like I'm missing something.
If the kits with the correct spacers are readily available, why even mess with piecing together sub-optimal stuff from Vulcan? Just the axle? ****, buy the kit and sell the spare axle.
ETA: if you're going to machine stuff, again, why bother with Vulcan. Just have your buddy with the CNC cut them from raw stock. He probably has drops and scrap from which to start for nearly zero cost. I feel like I'm missing something.
I'm waiting on a call back from Hawg Halters. They are looking into selling me all the parts minus the axle.
I'm also waiting to hear back from really more like a friend of a friend with the cnc lathe.
I was posing the question about tolerance just to get your opionion on how strict they had to be. The reason i did so is because Vulcan is saying that people use their spacers as is to do the mid to wide conversion without any issues. My thinking is like yours, It's better to not chance it. I was just throwing my options out there when I also mentioned turning down the Vulcan spacers.
As of now I haven't decided on anything until I speak with Hawg halters and the cnc guy.
I totally agree, turning down Vulcan's spacers is the least desirable of my options.