This should be a sticky...

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...ification.html

My bike has been sitting on a modified HF jack for a long time. Almost a year. Up, down, and all around the shop. No problems at all. If you're planning a big rebuild of the bike a J&S would be a wise choice, otherwise I have zero regrets with my modified one. It is a bit narrow at the base so the bike can get a little unstable if I tear down one end completely. It's never tipped over on its own but can get light enough that torquing some bigger bolts can require some thought.

 

With some of the stunts I've pulled I wouldn't be comfortable using anything but a J&S lift. Even during the conversion to a trike the J&S just shrugs it all off and is rock solid; that's most likely an additional 130 pounds hanging off the rear of the Wide Glide now; and still, no straps needed

Sorry for the blurry image; if I'd quit spending so much money on the bike I could afford a better camera

 

I agree. There's no good reason to drop $600 on a lift when you get the exact same outcome with a HF or Craftsman at 1/4 the price. Unless you have more money than sense, then by all means.

 

You might be able to add/bolt on an adapter, like this (http://images.yuku.com/image/jpeg/38...a884c91e69.jpg) to get more clearance, and still keep the bike level.

 

Well, I tried the jack mod but I must be missing something. I have the Harbor Freight jack. I got 6" bolts and moved the bars/pads to the outside as you can see. This gave me an inside diameter of 12-3/4" The problem is it's not wide enough, I'm hitting the kickstand. If I slide the jack anymore towards the front of the bike, then the rear pad is in contact with the bottom of the transmission.
Help?

 

when I use mine (from the perspective of your 2nd picture) I have to slide it in at an angle and simultaneously turn the jack so that the right leg ends up just on thr other side of the kickstand and perpendicular to the frame. You should have 2-3 inches sticking out on the primary side.

Is your bike lowered or is it stock height? If its lowered all bets are off. You'll have to run the bike up on some 2x6's to get the clearance to run the jack under.

 

I use a couple of paperback books to "shim" the low side of my LowRider. It seems relatively secure.

I haven't found a lift that would/could accommodate the drain plugs for fluid change purposes. I just slide a drain pan underneath when on the "jiffy" stand.

Also, I use an HD Ancra tie down on the frame and rail of my lift. Sometimes, I might need the front wheel off, the fender off, the front forks off, the triple clamps off, just for powdercoating.

If I don't have the frame lashed down, it may "tip" backwards as the weight on the front is at north county powdercoating...

The most height I've ever needed is about 16". This gives plenty of room to clear the bottom edge of the rear fender with the rear tire during R & R ing.

 

You could if you had one of these. I also had limited floor space and had a Kendon lift for several years. I absolutely loved it.
https://www.kendonusa.com/product/st...torcycle-lift/

You could probably find one on CL for about $450

 

The bike is not lowered. I tried what you said and it helped get the jack in there further, but I need another inch at the back to clear the transmission. I'm afraid if I use spacers to make the jack wider it will not be very safe.

 

I think I used 1" spacers plus a washer on each end. I'm out of town or I'd verify.