Electronic Speedometer
#1
Electronic Speedometer
I have a 1995 Dyna Wide Glide and I was having problems with my speedometer needle sticking periodically. I thought it was the speedometer, so I finally found a new one in Australia. It is doing the same thing as my old one. I think it is a wiring problem, but I am not sure which wires are causing this. Any help at all would be very much appreciated.
#2
That should be an electronic speedometer.
The speedometer "sticks" ...clarify exactly the meaning.
For example a dirty speed sensor would cause the speedometer to be unable to get a clean signal and cause incorrect readings of the needle AND odometer miles traveled.
This would cause needle to not rise or fall correctly.
Does the odometer operate correctly? meaning does the odometer count the miles correctly? The needle could be stuck but the odometer reads miles traveled correctly.
Reason: if the dial face becomes unglued or slightly crinkles in cold weather then the needle can get stuck....most times at 45 mph to 60 mph is the place for crinkle.
Have you ever cleaned the speed sensor?
Here is a parts finder link so you can enter year ,model and then part description speed sensor
Let us know.
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.....asp?make=hdmc
The speedometer "sticks" ...clarify exactly the meaning.
For example a dirty speed sensor would cause the speedometer to be unable to get a clean signal and cause incorrect readings of the needle AND odometer miles traveled.
This would cause needle to not rise or fall correctly.
Does the odometer operate correctly? meaning does the odometer count the miles correctly? The needle could be stuck but the odometer reads miles traveled correctly.
Reason: if the dial face becomes unglued or slightly crinkles in cold weather then the needle can get stuck....most times at 45 mph to 60 mph is the place for crinkle.
Have you ever cleaned the speed sensor?
Here is a parts finder link so you can enter year ,model and then part description speed sensor
Let us know.
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.....asp?make=hdmc
#3
#4
Electronic Speedometer
The speedometer is brand new. The speed sensor is brand new. The old speedometer that I replaced with the new speedometer did the exact same thing. The backlighting and odometer work fine. The turn signals cancel like they are supposed to. The speedometer works when I first start out but after about 20 minutes of riding, the speedometer needle sticks on 30 or 40 MPH and won't move no matter how fast I go. Sometimes when I shut the bike down, the needle will go back to 0 and sometimes it will stay on the speed that it was stuck on. I do my own work on my Harley. I am pretty good and I know it is a wiring problem. I am just not sure which wire or wires are heating up and causing this problem.
#5
You state
"The speedometer works when I first start out but after about 20 minutes of riding, the speedometer needle sticks on 30 or 40 MPH and won't move no matter how fast I go. "
As mentioned before, does the odometer record the miles correctly as you continue to ride with the stuck needle?
As described before, the needle could be getting stuck by rubbing against speedometer face.
If the odometer is measuring correctly when the needle is stuck then your problem is with the needle and speedometer face or the little motor that turns needle.
More common is the speedometer face has a slight bulge/bump-up....look at speedometer face at an angle with a great flashlight...look at little cut out for odometer...is speedometer face a little raised at odometer?
It does not take much to make needle rub against face. maybe the thickness of envelope.
That is the reason the needle gets stuck and does not fall when turned OFF...it gets stuck against the face of speedometer.
That is why i asked "Does the odometer operate correctly? meaning does the odometer count the miles correctly? The needle could be stuck but the odometer reads miles traveled correctly"
That is why the turn signals cancel like they are supposed, because the speedometer is recording miles and speed correctly but needle display is inaccurate because it is stuck against speedometer face.
It would also explain the stuck needle when OFF.
I could be wrong but i have seen this before and the fact that your turn signals cancel as required kinda clears it up.
If the odometer operates when needle is stuck that would be a confirmation and not a difficult fix.
"The speedometer works when I first start out but after about 20 minutes of riding, the speedometer needle sticks on 30 or 40 MPH and won't move no matter how fast I go. "
As mentioned before, does the odometer record the miles correctly as you continue to ride with the stuck needle?
As described before, the needle could be getting stuck by rubbing against speedometer face.
If the odometer is measuring correctly when the needle is stuck then your problem is with the needle and speedometer face or the little motor that turns needle.
More common is the speedometer face has a slight bulge/bump-up....look at speedometer face at an angle with a great flashlight...look at little cut out for odometer...is speedometer face a little raised at odometer?
It does not take much to make needle rub against face. maybe the thickness of envelope.
That is the reason the needle gets stuck and does not fall when turned OFF...it gets stuck against the face of speedometer.
That is why i asked "Does the odometer operate correctly? meaning does the odometer count the miles correctly? The needle could be stuck but the odometer reads miles traveled correctly"
That is why the turn signals cancel like they are supposed, because the speedometer is recording miles and speed correctly but needle display is inaccurate because it is stuck against speedometer face.
It would also explain the stuck needle when OFF.
I could be wrong but i have seen this before and the fact that your turn signals cancel as required kinda clears it up.
If the odometer operates when needle is stuck that would be a confirmation and not a difficult fix.
#6
Anytime you have a problem that is electrical in nature, start with:
ALL battery and ground connections.
Battery voltage static and under load.
Stator output, Reg/Rec output.
Wiring from source to problem (completely).
Skipping steps usually leads to replacing parts that aren't bad. The odds of two speedos having the same issue are pretty slim.
ALL battery and ground connections.
Battery voltage static and under load.
Stator output, Reg/Rec output.
Wiring from source to problem (completely).
Skipping steps usually leads to replacing parts that aren't bad. The odds of two speedos having the same issue are pretty slim.
Last edited by Campy Roadie; 04-20-2018 at 09:32 AM.
#7
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#8
Thanks Nomadmax. I think you are right. I know it is a wiring problem when the bike gets warm after about 20 to 30 miles and that is when the speedometer needle sticks on a speed. The odometer, backlighting and turn signal canceling all work fine. Do you recommend a continuity test on the wires from the speedometer harness to the harness plug in under the seat?
#9
Trying to help.
To be clearer, since it has been asked a few times and a clear response not received.
I do NOT understand...."Working fine"???
Does the odometer record the EXACT distance traveled when the needle is stuck?
In other words:
If it only happens at 20-30 mph then measure an exact distance with a GPS for the test.
Ride the bike with needle stuck for a fixed pre-measured distance like 5 miles.
That response will help you to better clarify if problem is mechanical or electrical.
To be clearer:
If you travel 5 measured miles with needle stuck the whole time does the odometer read those 5 miles traveled exactly? or does it record something else?
To be clearer: if you started test with 10,000 miles does it read 10,005 miles after the test?
Reason: The electronic speedometer works with positive 12 volts and ground for power/lights....then a 5+ volt pulse coming from hall effect sensor is translated by speedometer into odometer miles and needle movement.
The more pulses (higher speed) the more miles added to odometer(recorded miles traveled) and MPH needle moves higher.
The needle can be stuck but the odometer will continue to read the miles traveled because it is still getting the pulse from hall effect/speed sensor.
For example: If i removed glass and held needle the odometer would still record miles because the problem would be with needle.
That needle in speedometer is weighted under the black center button and needle is suppose to fall if it is not sticking.
If needle is stuck with bike OFF and battery removed then it could be mechanical.
If needle is stuck BUT odometer is counting miles correctly then it could be mechanical.
If you bought a new "old stock" speedometer then both speedometers could have the same problem because the face of speedometer sometimes separates from backing after 20 years.
You could also bench test speedometers with a simple square wave generator throwing 5 volt pulses but the simple tests mentioned above should be enough.
If the bike runs correctly, not turning off while riding and then restarting itself because clutch is not engaged or there is missing information then you should be closer to a diagnosis if the above tests are completed.
Let us know.
To be clearer, since it has been asked a few times and a clear response not received.
I do NOT understand...."Working fine"???
Does the odometer record the EXACT distance traveled when the needle is stuck?
In other words:
If it only happens at 20-30 mph then measure an exact distance with a GPS for the test.
Ride the bike with needle stuck for a fixed pre-measured distance like 5 miles.
That response will help you to better clarify if problem is mechanical or electrical.
To be clearer:
If you travel 5 measured miles with needle stuck the whole time does the odometer read those 5 miles traveled exactly? or does it record something else?
To be clearer: if you started test with 10,000 miles does it read 10,005 miles after the test?
Reason: The electronic speedometer works with positive 12 volts and ground for power/lights....then a 5+ volt pulse coming from hall effect sensor is translated by speedometer into odometer miles and needle movement.
The more pulses (higher speed) the more miles added to odometer(recorded miles traveled) and MPH needle moves higher.
The needle can be stuck but the odometer will continue to read the miles traveled because it is still getting the pulse from hall effect/speed sensor.
For example: If i removed glass and held needle the odometer would still record miles because the problem would be with needle.
That needle in speedometer is weighted under the black center button and needle is suppose to fall if it is not sticking.
If needle is stuck with bike OFF and battery removed then it could be mechanical.
If needle is stuck BUT odometer is counting miles correctly then it could be mechanical.
If you bought a new "old stock" speedometer then both speedometers could have the same problem because the face of speedometer sometimes separates from backing after 20 years.
You could also bench test speedometers with a simple square wave generator throwing 5 volt pulses but the simple tests mentioned above should be enough.
If the bike runs correctly, not turning off while riding and then restarting itself because clutch is not engaged or there is missing information then you should be closer to a diagnosis if the above tests are completed.
Let us know.
The following users liked this post:
Renegade946 (04-20-2018)
#10
Thank you IM for your response. Yes, the odometer reads exact miles when the needle is stuck. The bike runs perfectly and everything on the bike works perfectly except after about 20 to 30 miles of riding, the needle on the speedometer sticks on a speed and the needle won't move. Sometimes, if I stop and turn the engine off, the needle drops back to zero. I live in Florida and the speedometer works fine until the bike warms up and then the needle starts sticking on the speedo. I examined the speedo very closely when I received it because I had been looking for one for over a year. The backing had not separated and the face is sealed. I checked the needle with a very bright flashlight and it is not bowed or bent. The backlighting, odometer and turn signal canceling all work like they are supposed to.
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