06 Charging system
#1
06 Charging system
I recently put my bike under the knife for a stator/rotor update of the 07 1 piece unit as my stator has been reading low and putting the work load on my battery. I also picked up a voltage regulator at the same time for piece of mind.
The issue I'm having is that the stator/rotor are a 3 phase 40 amp and the new voltage regulator I got was a 3 phase 38 amp. Its all oem parts, will I run into any issues with this or would I be good to go?
The issue I'm having is that the stator/rotor are a 3 phase 40 amp and the new voltage regulator I got was a 3 phase 38 amp. Its all oem parts, will I run into any issues with this or would I be good to go?
#2
I have heard rotors are the same. What are you trying to drive other the stock electrics. The stator check is at a baseline 2000 RPM. That should be pretty consistent. Unless the stator is bad at those small connection wires.
Quite often you will find your only problem is the rotor spline is gone and the compensator spring pressure is what is driving it.
Quite often you will find your only problem is the rotor spline is gone and the compensator spring pressure is what is driving it.
#3
I have heard rotors are the same. What are you trying to drive other the stock electrics. The stator check is at a baseline 2000 RPM. That should be pretty consistent. Unless the stator is bad at those small connection wires.
Quite often you will find your only problem is the rotor spline is gone and the compensator spring pressure is what is driving it.
Quite often you will find your only problem is the rotor spline is gone and the compensator spring pressure is what is driving it.
#4
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: along the shore of Mishigami
Posts: 15,718
Received 4,760 Likes
on
2,530 Posts
The following users liked this post:
Campy Roadie (01-23-2018)
#5
I think it will work fine since the stator AC output voltage is so variable up thru the RPM range. The regulator does two major function. The AC coming thru the one way diodes changes the AC (alternating) to DC volts. Then by reading battery voltage, it let's 14.6 or so DC into the DC side which powers everything along with charging the 12.7 volt battery. That is why the battery reads that higher voltage when you first cut it off. Simple cutting it back on with the headlights on like are bikes are wired, it will kill that receidual (sorry about spelling) voltage and you will get 12.7 or so.
The voltages on the DC side will always be that no matter the amperage is feed to it. Now if it was a whole lot like 60 amp, the regulator may not be able to handle the load like a too small a wire and too much load (amp)
You should not have that unless your bike has one of those Christmas light setups, heated seat, grips, rear seat vibrator ect...
The voltages on the DC side will always be that no matter the amperage is feed to it. Now if it was a whole lot like 60 amp, the regulator may not be able to handle the load like a too small a wire and too much load (amp)
You should not have that unless your bike has one of those Christmas light setups, heated seat, grips, rear seat vibrator ect...
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 01-22-2018 at 07:23 PM.
#6
#7
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Depends on who wants to know.........and why.
Posts: 8,688
Received 1,902 Likes
on
1,109 Posts
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post