Just because you change cams, you do not have to have a dyno tune.

Yes, that may be the best for a major engine upgrade. However, I and many others have been very satisfied with products like the V&H FP3 Auto Tune module.

For only $300, I have a fantastically running engine on par with those I've spent 3 times as much on for a dyno tune.



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this is only my opinion so no offense to leafman but for an extra 100 bucks you can get a Powervision from fuel moto and they'll give you a tune specific for your can choice and other upgrades. After that you run a couple autotune sessions (it's easy, don't let that scare you off) and you'll have that thing running perfect.

 

A cam needs to be chosen based on the riders style and power needs/wants, but more importantly a cam needs to be chosen based on rest of the motor and the compression of the motor. You can't just throw a cam in the bike and expect it to perform. Using a cam that is too large for a stock motor or designed for a different compression ratio will actually take you a step backward. Your stock compression is about 9.8-1 and using a cam that is designed to work at 11-1 will ruin your bottom end. Conversely, using a cam that is designed for stock compression will build much too high of pressures within the motor if its being run at 11-1. Talk with a builder and plan out your motor if you are going to open it up for upgrades and make sure that all the components will work correctly together.

There are a handful of great stock upgrade cams to choose from. In a stock motor these are these are the cams that I would choose from:
Andrews 48h
Andrews 54
S&S 551
SE255

Just as a rule of thumb. Torque is what makes these motors. Torque is what gets the bike down the road. Torque is the power that you feel when twisting the throttle. Buy a cam that builds torque early and carries it out as far as possible.

If you want speed and horsepower, buy a crotch rocket.

And ABSOLUTELY plan to either use a tuner such as a Power Vision or a TTS that has a GOOD basemap for your chosen cam and will allow you to run a few auto tune sessions, or take the bike directly to a dyno tuner. DO NOT just plug in some map and call it good. Thats a good way to ruin a motor.

 

Great list of cams for a bagger!!

 

Email or call the techs at woods/andrews/s&s/etc and tell them all your pertinent info. They'll have recommendations ready and waiting.

 

Its a great list of cams for a VTwin. If you start venturing outside of cams in that range then you start to need to add compression for them to run right. Any one of those cams will get it done through 5000rpm where the vast majority of bikes run. I might not be able to outrun somebody on an open road at full throttle top end, but I guarantee you that I can outrun somebody off the line and through the curves. Its much more enjoyable in the curves rolling in and out of the throttle than it is shifting. They may often be referred to as Bagger cams, but they are all right at home in a lighter Dyna.

 

Didn't see andrews 57h 's mentioned anywhere, they were supposedly designed for the 103. You asked about other things you might want to replace whole in there, cam bearings, lifters, you might need adjustable pushrods depending on the base circle of your new cams and check out the cam chain tensioner shoes...they should be fine but you're there already. Also a good intake ,exhaust and a good tuner...don't go and spend all that cash then cheap out on the tuner...you'll hate yourself lol. I hate to be the one to say it but if you're going to do it yourself a factory service manual will be priceless. Oh and one more thing...don't take anything you read as fact ,even my b.s., do your own research from multiple sources.

 

Thanks to all, great info here and plenty to chew on until the money fairy decides to make a stop! I'm going to read up on basics, talk to and research vendor info and watch some YouTube videos on all those mentioned. Tuner-wise I think it's hands down the PowerVision is the front-runner at this point, the V&H FP3 after with maps and FuelMoto support for both.

 

Thank you, Nick.

Yes, as I said, "products like that."

The description of the $100 more expensive "Powervision" sounds very similar to the V&H FP3.

Point is, you do not always have to spring for a full dyno tune.

A great running engine can be had from these tuning modules.

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There is a substantial.....and I mean substantial difference between a tuner such as the powervision and tts vs the Fuelpak

Spend the money and buy a real tuner.