Clutch issue
#1
Clutch issue
My 2003 FXDWG has had a clutch that does'nt engage until lever is almost completely released. It's been adjusted by two competent mechanics and the clutch pack has been replaced. I would really like to get it to work like my 2015 FXDL. It does have the easy clutch cam installed, but I'm pretty sure it was the same before and after the cam change. Any ideas ?
#3
#5
I'm curious, if I just backed out the screw in the clutch assy, would this move the release point, or just create slack ?
#6
Clutch Adjustment
Steps 1. Start with a completely cold bike.
2. Slack cable as much as possible.
3. Remove derby cover.
4. Put the wrench on the adjuster shaft.
5. Break the torque on the jam nut.
6. Back out the adjuster shaft a couple of turns.
7. Pull the clutch lever into the handle bars.
8. While holding the clutch lever against the handle bars, turn the adjuster shaft in.
9. When the clutch lever starts to pull away from the handlebars, stop turning the adjuster.
10. Back out the adjuster 3/4 turn to 1 full turn and hold the adjuster with a wrench and torque the jam nut on the adjuster.
11. Reinstall the derby cover with fluid if needed.
12. Go back to the cable and start turning the adjuster there to put more tension on the cable, by making the cable longer. Adjust it until you have about an 1/8" of play
13. Put a dab of grease on the adjuster and slide the rubber cover the adjuster.
If you have done the adjustment properly, the clutch will start to engage when the lever leaves the handlebars. If the cable is installed wrong or the ***** are not on the ramp, look up that in your maintenance manual.
Put the bike on the side stand with apiece if a 2x4 under the stand. If you have a scissors jack, then just jack it up aft of the transmission. Failure to do this step will put primary fluid in the floor. The bike needs to be level.
2. Slack cable as much as possible.
3. Remove derby cover.
4. Put the wrench on the adjuster shaft.
5. Break the torque on the jam nut.
6. Back out the adjuster shaft a couple of turns.
7. Pull the clutch lever into the handle bars.
8. While holding the clutch lever against the handle bars, turn the adjuster shaft in.
9. When the clutch lever starts to pull away from the handlebars, stop turning the adjuster.
10. Back out the adjuster 3/4 turn to 1 full turn and hold the adjuster with a wrench and torque the jam nut on the adjuster.
11. Reinstall the derby cover with fluid if needed.
12. Go back to the cable and start turning the adjuster there to put more tension on the cable, by making the cable longer. Adjust it until you have about an 1/8" of play
13. Put a dab of grease on the adjuster and slide the rubber cover the adjuster.
If you have done the adjustment properly, the clutch will start to engage when the lever leaves the handlebars. If the cable is installed wrong or the ***** are not on the ramp, look up that in your maintenance manual.
Put the bike on the side stand with apiece if a 2x4 under the stand. If you have a scissors jack, then just jack it up aft of the transmission. Failure to do this step will put primary fluid in the floor. The bike needs to be level.
Last edited by dyna rider; 10-24-2017 at 05:04 PM.
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Dyna100 (10-24-2017)
#7
Steps 1. Start with a completely cold bike.
2. Slack cable as much as possible.
3. Remove derby cover.
4. Put the wrench on the adjuster shaft.
5. Break the torque on the jam nut.
6. Back out the adjuster shaft a couple of turns.
7. Pull the clutch lever into the handle bars.
8. While holding the clutch lever against the handle bars, turn the adjuster shaft in.
9. When the clutch lever starts to pull away from the handlebars, stop turning the adjuster.
10. Back out the adjuster 3/4 turn to 1 full turn and hold the adjuster with a wrench and torque the jam nut on the adjuster.
11. Reinstall the derby cover with fluid if needed.
12. Go back to the cable and start turning the adjuster there to put more tension on the cable, by making the cable longer. Adjust it until you have about an 1/8" of play
13. Put a dab of grease on the adjuster and slide the rubber cover the adjuster.
If you have done the adjustment properly, the clutch will start to engage when the lever leaves the handlebars. If the cable is installed wrong or the ***** are not on the ramp, look up that in your maintenance manual.
Put the bike on the side stand with apiece if a 2x4 under the stand. If you have a scissors jack, then just jack it up aft of the transmission. Failure to do this step will put primary fluid in the floor. The bike needs to be level.
2. Slack cable as much as possible.
3. Remove derby cover.
4. Put the wrench on the adjuster shaft.
5. Break the torque on the jam nut.
6. Back out the adjuster shaft a couple of turns.
7. Pull the clutch lever into the handle bars.
8. While holding the clutch lever against the handle bars, turn the adjuster shaft in.
9. When the clutch lever starts to pull away from the handlebars, stop turning the adjuster.
10. Back out the adjuster 3/4 turn to 1 full turn and hold the adjuster with a wrench and torque the jam nut on the adjuster.
11. Reinstall the derby cover with fluid if needed.
12. Go back to the cable and start turning the adjuster there to put more tension on the cable, by making the cable longer. Adjust it until you have about an 1/8" of play
13. Put a dab of grease on the adjuster and slide the rubber cover the adjuster.
If you have done the adjustment properly, the clutch will start to engage when the lever leaves the handlebars. If the cable is installed wrong or the ***** are not on the ramp, look up that in your maintenance manual.
Put the bike on the side stand with apiece if a 2x4 under the stand. If you have a scissors jack, then just jack it up aft of the transmission. Failure to do this step will put primary fluid in the floor. The bike needs to be level.