I have found this works to put the engage point where you want it ... First thing is to make sure the clutch pack is properly adjusted.

Adjust the cable as you normally would ... check the engage point ... then you can fine tune the engage point by making the cable longer or shorter.

Making the cable a little longer will move the engage point away from the grip ... making the cable a little shorter will move the engage point toward the grip. It only takes a half or quarter turn on the cable adjuster to fine tune the engage point.

 

Personally, I like the 'problem' the OP describes, not a problem unless the plates are dragging. I hate having that much lever travel. Slow shifts that aren't smooth and you have to get your fingers out of the way.

 

I installed one of those Burly easy pull clutch cams and cannot get the clutch adjusted to where i like it. For some reason you lose some of the adjustment range with easy pulls. Mine is coming out this winter, going back to stock.

 

Sorry, but that's bassakwards.. making the cable longer means the handle has more cable to take up, hence closer to the grip... making it shorter means the clutch handle engages the clutch sooner- away from the grip.

You want your handle to be adjusted where there is approximately a dime's width between the handle and the handle mount, sitting static.

 

The problem is I ride this bike for a while and then hop on my other bike, forgetting the clutch on my new bike starts engaging right away... I've ran the bike into my car in the driveway...

 

No argument here and no criticism. Just a different point of view. Actually thanks to you, I will make some adjustments to my bike to see if I can't get closer to my preference. The clutch is working perfectly so I haven't bothered.

I use two fingers and would love to have full disengagement/engagement in the first inch of pull, like my hydraulic bikes (non-Harley).

Cheers!

 

Suspect you might not like it when stopped at light on uphill roads..

 

How does that come into play. I don't understand but sure it wouldn't matter. Actually, being able to keep two fingers on the grip alone, with the clutch engaged (other two fingers), would be a benefit in that situation - as you pull away hard you can hold the bars effectively while releasing the clutch.

The issue for me is to fully engage the clutch means the fingers would be in the way if the lever gets too close to the grip. So, you have put all fingers on the lever (or release the grip itself). Totally unacceptable. If you've done any track time, you know...

 

I have a habit of pulling the clutch all the way in when I stop. When launching on a steep hill I forget clutch doesn't release till right at the end, and I start rolling backwards before the clutch grabs.. It's just me, I'm so used a normal clutch..

 

Until you get it the way you like it (or develop a different habitual process), rear brake perhaps?