Help - lowering rear end/closing rear wheel and rear fender gap
#1
Help - lowering rear end/closing rear wheel and rear fender gap
Looking to lower my back end of my 2013 Street Bob. Recommendations on shocks to put on? I have read a lot about ohlins, but gauging for possible cheaper but still great quality brands.
I realized that I have progressive shocks on now, not sure which ones, but still the goal is to close the gap between my wheel and rear fender. My Dad and I think that by adjusting the shocks with a Spanner wrench that we can close that a little bit more. Is this true? Or are there other means of doing this?
Help
I realized that I have progressive shocks on now, not sure which ones, but still the goal is to close the gap between my wheel and rear fender. My Dad and I think that by adjusting the shocks with a Spanner wrench that we can close that a little bit more. Is this true? Or are there other means of doing this?
Help
#2
#3
Correct. But in adjusting the shock and it reacting to my weight, that could close that gap or no? If not, then what would you suggest to achieve that?
#4
#5
Be aware that when you put on shorter shocks you'll be reducing the already small amount of shock travel that you have. The ride quality will suffer and it's much easier to scrape hard parts in corners and turns. So it's a trade off between looks and function, but it's your bike and your decision.
I went the shorter shock route, but not for too many miles. Then I installed set of Ohlins that were .6" over stock and the bike rides and handles superbly. So much so that I don't care how it looks.
I went the shorter shock route, but not for too many miles. Then I installed set of Ohlins that were .6" over stock and the bike rides and handles superbly. So much so that I don't care how it looks.
Last edited by nevil; 10-06-2017 at 11:57 AM.
#6
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#7
Going with a high end name like ohlins to lower the bike is pointless. By lowering it you throw the handling\comfort away. If looks are all your after (not trying to dis here) just go with something like the burly slammers.
In the end do whatever is going to make you happy. just know spending the cash on ohlins is typically done to drastically improve the handling of the bike. You are doing the opposite so why spend the cash.
Changing the pre-load will make your fender gap less because your spring will compress more under your weight. But this is only going to be while your on the bike. Once you get off and stand back to take a look the gap will be present. And again, this will be yet another negative impact to the handling of the bike.
In the end do whatever is going to make you happy. just know spending the cash on ohlins is typically done to drastically improve the handling of the bike. You are doing the opposite so why spend the cash.
Changing the pre-load will make your fender gap less because your spring will compress more under your weight. But this is only going to be while your on the bike. Once you get off and stand back to take a look the gap will be present. And again, this will be yet another negative impact to the handling of the bike.
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#8
If you really want to close the gap between the tire and fender, you really need to replace the fender and go for one that mounts on the swingarm as opposed to the main frame of the bike.
That way, you can fix the gap to how you like it as the distance between fender and tire will then always be constant.
Beware that this means major surgery and cutting off the fender struts on the frame. You can't go back.
That way, you can fix the gap to how you like it as the distance between fender and tire will then always be constant.
Beware that this means major surgery and cutting off the fender struts on the frame. You can't go back.
#9
Lowering Rear
All the advise you have been given is good advise. If you lower the rear, it will compromise both the ride and the handling.
If you are dead set on doing the "change", you might try air shocks. They can be adjusted, on the fly, and will give you the best of both worlds. Be aware that the rubber bladders, over time will wear out and start leaking air. If that happens, you will be stuck on the lowest setting and harshest ride.
Another way to lower it are struts called not shocks. They make the rear of you bike a rigid with no shock dampening what-so-ever.
https://www.biltwellinc.com/c135/buy/10-quot-rigid/
If you are dead set on doing the "change", you might try air shocks. They can be adjusted, on the fly, and will give you the best of both worlds. Be aware that the rubber bladders, over time will wear out and start leaking air. If that happens, you will be stuck on the lowest setting and harshest ride.
Another way to lower it are struts called not shocks. They make the rear of you bike a rigid with no shock dampening what-so-ever.
https://www.biltwellinc.com/c135/buy/10-quot-rigid/
#10