Also yes, reducing the spring preload will lower the bike when you sit on it.... it will also have less ability to stop hitting 'the hard stop' when you hit a bump.

I installed 12" Progressive 412HD on my bike about 60k miles ago.. replaced them last year... with the same make/model.

12" is only .5" shorter, but it did lower the back end a little, and the stiffer 412HD means I don't bottom out.

Yes, the ride is considerable stiffer.. .I like it. I don't carve corners like a mad-man, but I do scrape my pegs first.

 

I hated the big gap too. 13.5" ohlins and a fenderectomy fixed the problem.

 

i would suggest you look at air shocks, best of both worlds

 

Fastest way is with some Burley Slammers.
But start saving for when your tired of that look/ride and THEN spend the money for a hi end shock. Orrrrrr say **** it and go for the Rocket Bobs pintail or voodoo fender.

 

Get the best of both worlds with air ride. Raise it up to rail corners and slam it when parked. I built my system for about $200.

 

It blows my mind that people still lower these bikes. It’s one of the WORST things you can do to the suspension

 

You can always try lowering blocks. If you dont like the ride, someone will take them off you.

 

no one has said the simple inexpensive fix. try lowering blocks. plenty of company's that make them. it will lower an inch of height.

 

An alternative option if you plan on doing custom wheels is to change the rear wheel size.

My 05 Night train had a stock 16 inch wheel, and when I ordered new wheels I did an 18inch on the rear. stuffed the rear tire up in that rear fender more and looked awesome.

I know you didn't ask about whether or not to lower it, but after I messed around with my softail I wouldn't do it again. ride is harsh, hurts on big bumps, handles ****, reduces lean in corners, jiffy stand needs replaced ect ect.

I'm not changing a thing on my 17 LRS. Love it.

Good luck.

 

Adjusting the preload on your progressive shocks won't change your ride height, only the relative stiffness. The bike will sit a bit lower under the weight of a rider but in doing this you will sacrifice performance. To lower your bike, you'll either need shorter shocks or Lowering blocks.

Here is a LINK to a report we did on Rear suspension. We tested various shocks and suspension components with overall comfort, performance, and ride quality as reference points.

Ultimately, we decided on carrying the Pro-Action and Twin-Adjustables, respectively.

There were a few shocks we tested that provided a small incremental improvement in ride quality, but the cost of those shocks are north of $1,000.00, many in the $1500-$2000 range. We did not find small improvement (10-15 points) worth the 1.5 - 3.5 times the price difference.

Additionally, here is a LINK to our Rear Shocks as well as a LINK to our Lowering kits.

You can even get the shocks we carry in shorter than OEM lengths while still maintaining very impressive suspension travel.