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New front predator and OEM rear motor mount, Problem.

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  #11  
Old 07-11-2017 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by wcsiegel
I have a similar noise/thudding under my seat that I have been unable to resolve. Sounds like the same symptoms. I will be checking this out tonight. Thank you!
I also felt it under my seat. That is why I thought it was the rear motor mount that I had just changed. Felt the clunk more on the foot pegs.
 
  #12  
Old 07-11-2017 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by wideglideCVO
Yes, it was 1 1/2" fork stem nut. the lock washer spun a little loosened the nut. Then tightened the adjuster nut a little, tightened the stem nut back with a new lock washer no more clunk or vibrations.
good. I still haven't installed my predator. Glad to see the mount wasn't the source.
 
  #13  
Old 07-11-2017 | 05:44 PM
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Hmmm. I am having a vibration in the left foot peg, only seem to feel it the first few minutes after starting up, I will check the mount(s) first, then move onto other things mentioned...
 
  #14  
Old 07-15-2017 | 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by wideglideCVO
Yes, it was 1 1/2" fork stem nut. the lock washer spun a little loosened the nut. Then tightened the adjuster nut a little, tightened the stem nut back with a new lock washer no more clunk or vibrations.
Question. I looked at the service manual last night to see how the steering head is assembled and it seems like my adjusting nut is below the top clamp. Did you have to remove the top clamp to make the adjustment you mentioned?


 
  #15  
Old 07-15-2017 | 08:13 AM
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Loosen the fork stem nut then you can slide a thin chisel, flathead, or putty knife in to the adjustment nut and tap the end of the handle to spin it. The adjustment nut has a bunch of rounded ridges on it to be able to do this without removing the triple tree.
 
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  #16  
Old 07-15-2017 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay Guild
Loosen the fork stem nut then you can slide a thin chisel, flathead, or putty knife in to the adjustment nut and tap the end of the handle to spin it. The adjustment nut has a bunch of rounded ridges on it to be able to do this without removing the triple tree.
Excellent, thank you!
 
  #17  
Old 07-15-2017 | 10:39 AM
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In order to do what you are thinking, front wheel must be off the floor, and you must loosen also, the lower pinch bolts number 13 on the picture, do not loosen the upper pinch bolts number 4 on picture otherwise fork will drop out, and do not adjust too much the star adjusting nut, just do it 1/8 inch at a time, then tighten the Stem nut to best you can, then tighten pinch bolts to torque, then lower bike to ground and then torque properly the Stem Nut, then test ride every time.
 
  #18  
Old 07-15-2017 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Smogbob
In order to do what you are thinking, front wheel must be off the floor, and you must loosen also, the lower pinch bolts number 13 on the picture, do not loosen the upper pinch bolts number 4 on picture otherwise fork will drop out, and do not adjust too much the star adjusting nut, just do it 1/8 inch at a time, then tighten the Stem nut to best you can, then tighten pinch bolts to torque, then lower bike to ground and then torque properly the Stem Nut, then test ride every time.
So I adjusted the nut before I read your reply. It definitely made a difference but it is still there. Seems like this is the root cause. Wondering if I should lift the front and tighten it again using your method. I turned the adjusting nut about an 1/8 turn. It moved pretty easily.
 
  #19  
Old 07-16-2017 | 02:55 AM
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If you did not loosen the pinch bolts, that is not good you will be binding the forks, I would redo the procedure again to be safe, its not hard once you see how it works, Do not tighten that star adjusting nut to much otherwise it will damage the bearing, if you still have the front wobble, try setting your shock absorbers to the lowest setting, go ride, and id still wobble, go up one setting until you have gone through all the settings, sometimes it is as simple as shock setting to high or low, also just for info if you have any sort of shield on your ride the wind blowing will give you a wobble also, also check tyre pressure is correct and do not believe these tyre pressure cheapo checkers, get a good tyre pressure checker, I have a good checker, and the reality between the checker and the pump is crazy different, also one thing that changed the ride completely was I was at shock setting 4 on my Fatbob weight 250 lbs, so I dropped it to setting number 3, it was night and day, I could see clearly out of my mirrors, the change was enormous.
 

Last edited by Smogbob; 07-16-2017 at 07:32 AM.
  #20  
Old 07-16-2017 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Smogbob
If you did not loosen the pinch bolts, that is not good you will be binding the forks, I would redo the procedure again to be safe, its not hard once you see how it works, Do not tighten that star adjusting nut to much otherwise it will damage the bearing, if you still have the front wobble, try setting your shock absorbers to the lowest setting, go ride, and id still wobble, go up one setting until you have gone through all the settings, sometimes it is as simple as shock setting to high or low, also just for info if you have any sort of shield on your ride the wind blowing will give you a wobble also, also check tyre pressure is correct and do not believe these tyre pressure cheapo checkers, get a good tyre pressure checker, I have a good checker, and the reality between the checker and the pump is crazy different, also one thing that changed the ride completely was I was at shock setting 4 on my Fatbob weight 250 lbs, so I dropped it to setting number 3, it was night and day, I could see clearly out of my mirrors, the change was enormous.
Thank you. I'm gonna do this today. I found the same technique you describe in the service manual. I plan on following this. I'll also check my suspension settings. Thank you.

 


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