No start, No spark
#11
05-31-2017, 05:56 PM
I did some quick research and the coil on the 2000 FXDS and my 2001 FXD are the same. According to my wiring diagram, your ignition coil connects via a three-pin connector labeled A B and C.
Contact A goes to the ignition module black connector. My diagram shows this as a yellow wire with a blue trace that goes to contact 7 on the black connector on the ignition module.
Contact B goes to the ignition module black connector. My diagram shows this as a white wire with a black trace that goes to contact 1 on the black connector on the ignition module and parallels to the start/run/start switch. This is the power input from the switches. If the starter cycles, there is power to the switch. If there is no power here when you select run on the switch, it is possible the switch is bad. It happens.
Contact C goes to the ignition module black connector. . My diagram shows this as a blue wire with an orange trace going to contact 6 on the black connector on the ignition module.
Power from the Ignition fuse is paralleled and routed to the right control start/run/start switches and contact 1 of the Turn Signal/Security Module. My diagram shows this as a gray wire.
If it is cranking over and you have power to the coil, TSSM, and ignition module from the switch, and you checked the wiring from the module to the coil is good, then you either have a bad coil or ignition module.
It is possible that the module or coil, or both, were damaged with the battery shorting. You will have to do some research on how to check those. A quality shop will replace both if one is bad because that is best practice for insuring that both are good in situations like this.
The coil costs about half as much as the module ($100 for the coil and $225 for the module) and they are not returnable once installed so Murphy will make sure you buy the wrong one first. It just seems to work out that way.
Good luck.
Contact A goes to the ignition module black connector. My diagram shows this as a yellow wire with a blue trace that goes to contact 7 on the black connector on the ignition module.
Contact B goes to the ignition module black connector. My diagram shows this as a white wire with a black trace that goes to contact 1 on the black connector on the ignition module and parallels to the start/run/start switch. This is the power input from the switches. If the starter cycles, there is power to the switch. If there is no power here when you select run on the switch, it is possible the switch is bad. It happens.
Contact C goes to the ignition module black connector. . My diagram shows this as a blue wire with an orange trace going to contact 6 on the black connector on the ignition module.
Power from the Ignition fuse is paralleled and routed to the right control start/run/start switches and contact 1 of the Turn Signal/Security Module. My diagram shows this as a gray wire.
If it is cranking over and you have power to the coil, TSSM, and ignition module from the switch, and you checked the wiring from the module to the coil is good, then you either have a bad coil or ignition module.
It is possible that the module or coil, or both, were damaged with the battery shorting. You will have to do some research on how to check those. A quality shop will replace both if one is bad because that is best practice for insuring that both are good in situations like this.
The coil costs about half as much as the module ($100 for the coil and $225 for the module) and they are not returnable once installed so Murphy will make sure you buy the wrong one first. It just seems to work out that way.
Good luck.
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noodle (06-02-2017)
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