Find a new dealer... I'd trailer mine 200 miles to not deal with that dealer ever again.

Baker or SE#2 comp, Baker or Hayden chain tensioner, Bandit Sportsman clutch.
(new bearings, check rotor, check starter pinion and ring gear)

 

That is completely BS. Start brushing up on warranty law folks... a business can't just ***** nilly void your warranty.. they have to prove that the act/substance voided your warranty. Ask them to see in writing where it says that taking anything apart voids your warranty.

https://www.ftc.gov/tips-advice/busi...l-warranty-law

 

I'm not sure I understands this.. If the OP is a certified MMM then how come he don't know where the issue is? Sounds like the title doesn't mean anything..

Anyway there are couple of things that are worth pointing out..

1. Going to a 117 requires typically a cam change and for sure a good tune. The cam needs to be changed to reduce cranking compression tho HD looks to have issued a map change in reference to compression release actuation.

2. Without a good tune the comp can knock at idle (latest SE / EOM comp). Higher CCP and poor tune only make it worse. I've got 07 EGC that has been built to a 103 with a w777 can but the CCP is only 185 psi.. It has a tuner that idles a little rough for about the 3-4 seconds when the motor is cold. During that 3-4 seconds the comp knocks. After that there isn't any noise.

3. It would be nice to figure out where the slivers cam from but as stated they look like gear teeth.. They don't look too bad but generally they are the result of kickback during starting. If things are not improved, I wouldn't be surprised if bigger pieces are not eventually found.

I would suggest that the OP get find out what the CCP is and figure out if it's to high, then get the CCP where it's more comfortable and have the bike tuned with a tuner that can handle the build configuration. Also get the updated map that does a better job of compression release actuation.

I'm surprised that the dealer is doing any work except for the fact that there seems to be a relationship between the dealer and OP.. Technically the 117 kits are crossed flagged which means by installing them, the warranty is void.

 

I know the failure started with the compensator (or possibly the auto tensioner/chain being to tight, I've heard a few issues with that) either way it's clearly progressing because now the bearing is making excessive noise, and there are metal shavings. The only thing I don't know is where the shavings came from because once I found them I filled the primary and sent it to the dealer because it's under warranty. I'm going to disassemble the primary myself either today or tomorrow after work and inspect it myself to find the source of the shavings. The title was because I was curious if anyone else has experienced similar issues.

I I did the 117 kit from se which included cams, and pv autotune. It will go on a dyno once we close on our house and I cash out some equity (June 7th). The dealer sold me a special "j,M&A" warranty to cover the 117 and swore they would honor it because the 117 kit was the whole reason I traded my street bob in for this. I will pull everything apart and if there's no sheared teeth or excessive play or anything I can physically bring to them, then the only option I see, is to deal with it and pay out of pocket to replace the components.

 

i checked with baker, they don't have anything for the lrs, didn't think of Hayden but I'll try them too. Baker only offers a tensioner for the lrs.

 

I would just forget about the dealer, don't speak to them about it

Get the manual and open it up and do your own inspection/fix, get the tools you need from heartland and go for it

Take the sportster to work if you have to for a while

 

im going to. I already have the tools/sm. I've been inside primary's a few times but if I find something they can't deny I want them to warranty it. When baker comes out with a compensator/clutch assembly for the lrs I'll upgrade to that.

 

I'm thinking you had to pull the primary cover to get those out. I'd check the inside outer edge for gouges. Could be caused by improperly adjusted or failed tensioner and chain slapping the cover or inner primary cover.

 

no I only pulled the derby cover. The metal was stuck to the magnet on the drain plug. If I had known they wouldn't find anything I would have pulled everything apart myself. Lesson learned.

 

I wouldn't jump to any conclusions just yet. It might be a simple fix. There isn't anything wrong with the compensator you're running. Baker has had issues too with theirs. Take your time, see what you see. Warranty's are good for simple stuff but the more complicated you'll be better off figuring it out yourself. At least you're in the position to do so. And with the family connection to both dealerships it really isn't worth fighting this one over what might end up costing you $150 in parts for a new clutch hub (if that's what it is).

If it were up to me buying a new bike I'd rather have $1k back and a limited warranty.