Electrical/Idle issues - Stator? Regulator? Something else?
#11
One thing you did not do was check the output of them at 2000RPM before the regulator. They should each combination read 32-46 AC volts. Bet you are low. That 13 dc volts at 2000 rpm is low with lights on. It will probably keep battery charged.
The stator is checkable with a meter. If it is correct, then the DC volts coming out of regulator to the battery is the only check you can do on regulator without fancy equipment.
I may have missed it but have you charged, removed and had the battery checked off bike?
The stator is checkable with a meter. If it is correct, then the DC volts coming out of regulator to the battery is the only check you can do on regulator without fancy equipment.
I may have missed it but have you charged, removed and had the battery checked off bike?
#12
Hi,
I was wondering if you have found the issue finally... I have ran into the same issue with my 08 FXDF. I was riding back from Leesburg Bike Fest in FL and I noticed the bike getting stuck at >~2000RPM, which I basically needed to stop, shut off the bike and start again to go away. noticed after the incident that the same codes were coming up on the DTC and extras; I have done taken out all my fuses and battery connections cleaned, coated dialect grease and placed it back.. codes come back up and high RPM comes back once so often. I have done the battery post connection and I don't really see any spikes above 14.5 VDC. I haven't yet done the Stator test nor the regulator test directly.. as unfortunately I don't have a garage to work on and I live in South Florida. I took the bike to the stealership... They kept my bike for 5 hours. Said that the Harley Diag. computer was coming up with the same codes but nothing more solid. They replaced the Speed sensor and another sensor. Which didn't fix the issue. The only good thing out of this is the fact that now any labor is free until they fix the issue. Problem is that it seems that the Master Mechanic knows less than I do being that I told him all the homework I did and guy couldn't reproduce the issue, when less than 3 miles away from dealer issue was popping back up. I do have a few slight changes on the electrical system, all lights/turns are replaced with LEDs and I use a Badlands Load Equalizer (Which is know to throw B1006 erros) but not the others..
Lights don't flicker, not goes up and down in intensity all blinkers/lights works fine. and when the issue happens I've noticed that the 6th gear indicator also stops lighting up until the DTC codes are cleared.
P - P0563 - Battery Voltage High
S - B0563/B1006/61007 - Battery Voltage High/Accessory Line Overvoltage Instruments/Ignition Line Overvoltage Instruments
Sp - B1121/B1122 - Left Turn Output Fault/Right Turn Output Fault
T - no rsp
b - no rsp
I was wondering if you have found the issue finally... I have ran into the same issue with my 08 FXDF. I was riding back from Leesburg Bike Fest in FL and I noticed the bike getting stuck at >~2000RPM, which I basically needed to stop, shut off the bike and start again to go away. noticed after the incident that the same codes were coming up on the DTC and extras; I have done taken out all my fuses and battery connections cleaned, coated dialect grease and placed it back.. codes come back up and high RPM comes back once so often. I have done the battery post connection and I don't really see any spikes above 14.5 VDC. I haven't yet done the Stator test nor the regulator test directly.. as unfortunately I don't have a garage to work on and I live in South Florida. I took the bike to the stealership... They kept my bike for 5 hours. Said that the Harley Diag. computer was coming up with the same codes but nothing more solid. They replaced the Speed sensor and another sensor. Which didn't fix the issue. The only good thing out of this is the fact that now any labor is free until they fix the issue. Problem is that it seems that the Master Mechanic knows less than I do being that I told him all the homework I did and guy couldn't reproduce the issue, when less than 3 miles away from dealer issue was popping back up. I do have a few slight changes on the electrical system, all lights/turns are replaced with LEDs and I use a Badlands Load Equalizer (Which is know to throw B1006 erros) but not the others..
Lights don't flicker, not goes up and down in intensity all blinkers/lights works fine. and when the issue happens I've noticed that the 6th gear indicator also stops lighting up until the DTC codes are cleared.
P - P0563 - Battery Voltage High
S - B0563/B1006/61007 - Battery Voltage High/Accessory Line Overvoltage Instruments/Ignition Line Overvoltage Instruments
Sp - B1121/B1122 - Left Turn Output Fault/Right Turn Output Fault
T - no rsp
b - no rsp
#13
He was actually reading .3 there Rip. (point to point minus the test shorting of the leads) So that doesn't sound bad... but I'm thinking they ought to be just a bit higher.. .>.5 or so.
Checking the AC voltage out of the stator is now required, at the level Rip states above 36-46.volts~
Checking the AC voltage out of the stator is now required, at the level Rip states above 36-46.volts~
AC Volt now to give it a clean bill of health at 2000 RPM
#14
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Sandy Eggo's North County
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#15
I'll check AC voltage when I got home today. I'm going to stop and grab a regulator just in case. The dealership has one in stock and they said if I don't open it I can return it. Harley gets picky about returning electrical parts but I know enough people well enough there that they will let me. The other thing I didn't do yet that is a pretty simple test is pop off the derby cover and give it a smell. From what I hear a burn out stator stinks pretty bad.
rrogerio,
Sounds exactly like what my bike is doing. I should have some more info tonight or tomorrow morning and I'll update. Thanks for the help guys!!
rrogerio,
Sounds exactly like what my bike is doing. I should have some more info tonight or tomorrow morning and I'll update. Thanks for the help guys!!
#16
You're probably right but I wont figure that out until I change my primary fluid at least twice, go through multiple gaskets and break good parts in the process that I'll have to replace.
#17
Thanks man.. if I hear anything from the stealership I will post here as well. if this had happened around December I would have probably done all the troubleshooting myself. but having to work under Sun @ 90F chasing electric gremlins is pretty brutal..
#18
When I got home from work yesterday I checked the AC voltage at each of the 3 phases on the stator. I was getting 26V from 2 of the poles and 0V from the 3rd. I don't really trust the numbers to be accurate because this multimeter is obviously pretty crappy but a 0 is still 0. So I opened up the derby cover and it stunk. It smelled like what I imagined a computer lit on fire would smell like. I started digging into the primary....
When I drained the fluid it was BLACK. It was redline fluid with less then 100 miles on it so I imagine it should have been pretty red/pinkish still. It also stunk pretty bad.
I was trying to avoid taking the inner primary off. The rotor just barley wouldn't fit when I pulled it out. I didn't buy or use any fancy puller tool. I just grabbed on a yanked. I saw in another post by Mud that he just ground down the little lip on the inside of the primary and his rotor slid out so that's what I did. When I got the rotor off this is what I saw.
In the top left corner you can see it looks fried. That part smelled particularly bad also. There was chunks of something that seemed to be flaking off the stator on the splined shaft too.
Here is a picture of the new and old stator next to each other.
Swapped out the stator and buttoned it all back up. Changed the oil while I was already covered in other oil. By that time it was late and didn't get a chance for a test ride to confirm this solved my problem but based on the look and smell of the old stator I'd say this was it. I have a voltage regulator just in case that got fried when the stator went.
On a side note the teeth on my starter looked pretty chewed up. Wonder how long it will be before that craps out on me...
After I throw my new shocks on tonight I'll take her for a test ride and hopefully come back with good news. Fingers crossed.
When I drained the fluid it was BLACK. It was redline fluid with less then 100 miles on it so I imagine it should have been pretty red/pinkish still. It also stunk pretty bad.
I was trying to avoid taking the inner primary off. The rotor just barley wouldn't fit when I pulled it out. I didn't buy or use any fancy puller tool. I just grabbed on a yanked. I saw in another post by Mud that he just ground down the little lip on the inside of the primary and his rotor slid out so that's what I did. When I got the rotor off this is what I saw.
In the top left corner you can see it looks fried. That part smelled particularly bad also. There was chunks of something that seemed to be flaking off the stator on the splined shaft too.
Here is a picture of the new and old stator next to each other.
Swapped out the stator and buttoned it all back up. Changed the oil while I was already covered in other oil. By that time it was late and didn't get a chance for a test ride to confirm this solved my problem but based on the look and smell of the old stator I'd say this was it. I have a voltage regulator just in case that got fried when the stator went.
On a side note the teeth on my starter looked pretty chewed up. Wonder how long it will be before that craps out on me...
After I throw my new shocks on tonight I'll take her for a test ride and hopefully come back with good news. Fingers crossed.
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rrogerio (05-11-2017)
#20
Another Question: Did the Brembo Calipers fit w/o any adaptations ?!
Cheers !!!