HD clutch and heavy spring
#1
04-10-2017, 01:36 PM
HD clutch and heavy spring
I bought a new clutch pack kit and heavy duty spring. Th spring is too much for me too pull (arthritic hands, being a mechanic for 18 years). I put this:
37951-98 Screamin Eagle HD spring $34.95
37980-10 Screamin Eagle HD clutch pack $179.95
I put this clutch in for less than 5 miles. Ended up putting old clutch back in. I will sell for $150 including shipping or you can bring your bike to me and I can install it for you for $200 including clutch and spring. Text for pics, I have the receipt. 951-760-342three -Bob
37951-98 Screamin Eagle HD spring $34.95
37980-10 Screamin Eagle HD clutch pack $179.95
I put this clutch in for less than 5 miles. Ended up putting old clutch back in. I will sell for $150 including shipping or you can bring your bike to me and I can install it for you for $200 including clutch and spring. Text for pics, I have the receipt. 951-760-342three -Bob
#2
04-10-2017, 02:50 PM
If you need a stronger clutch because of slippage but don't want those gorilla stiff springs, consider an extra plate clutch like those made by Alto, Barnett and Energy Systems.
I installed a Carbonite extra plate clutch made by Alto and kept my stock spring on a hopped-up 103. I have NO slippage now and kept the stock, light-pull clutch lever.
I installed a Carbonite extra plate clutch made by Alto and kept my stock spring on a hopped-up 103. I have NO slippage now and kept the stock, light-pull clutch lever.
Last edited by leafman60; 04-10-2017 at 02:54 PM.
#3
04-10-2017, 02:57 PM
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#4
04-10-2017, 05:31 PM
#6
04-12-2017, 10:40 AM
#7
04-12-2017, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by blueangel73
I recently installed the Barnett Extra Plate kit and the Heavy Duty Spring, Clutch action is sooooooo much nicer, but I feel the need to pull the Heavy Duty Spring back out and put the standard spring back in, sitting in traffic before and after work everyday is a nightmare on the hand.
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#8
04-12-2017, 12:10 PM
Elite HDF Member
Thanks, but a little late. I opened the case up last night and put the stock spring back in, feels way better. Now I just need to figure out the adjustment of the clutch. I do what the book says, but still end up with the clutch engaging /releasing with the lever almost completely out. I would like to have it more towards the middle of the lever stroke. I went to the technical part of the forum and to the section about clutches and did some reading, still a little confused. I made a post, but the thread isn't very active and who knows when I'd get a response. Here is what I posted.
Questions are listed next to the comment/instruction.
Back off the cable adjuster until the adjuster is fully collapsed. Got it!
Remove the derby cover and set aside. Got it!
Loosen the clutch adjuster lock nut two turns. Got it!
Turn the clutch adjuster in until it seats against the clutch release. Seated means that it is touching but not pushing against the release. At this time the clutch lever should have very little play. Should the lever be pulled all the way in against the grip or should it be all the way out?
Back the adjuster out 1/2 to 1 full turn from seated. Repeat this several times to get all the play out. Should the lever be pulled in and repeat this process of touching/seat the adjuster rod, back off and pull the lever to engage the ball ramp and repeat until I can no longer feel free play at the lever and the adjuster rod no longer requires turn in to seat and the lever is somewhere between the all the way in and all the way out point?
Lock the adjuster nut down while holding the adjuster from turning. Got it!
Work the clutch lever several times before adjusting the free play at the cable adjuster. Adjust the free play to 1/16" to 1/8" as measured at the pivot. I usually add just a little slack as a personal preference. Got It!
Work the clutch several times to make sure operation is smooth and no binding in any part of the travel. Got it!
I am hoping this will get my engagement close to the middle of lever action, right now it is near the end of release.
Back off the cable adjuster until the adjuster is fully collapsed. Got it!
Remove the derby cover and set aside. Got it!
Loosen the clutch adjuster lock nut two turns. Got it!
Turn the clutch adjuster in until it seats against the clutch release. Seated means that it is touching but not pushing against the release. At this time the clutch lever should have very little play. Should the lever be pulled all the way in against the grip or should it be all the way out?
Back the adjuster out 1/2 to 1 full turn from seated. Repeat this several times to get all the play out. Should the lever be pulled in and repeat this process of touching/seat the adjuster rod, back off and pull the lever to engage the ball ramp and repeat until I can no longer feel free play at the lever and the adjuster rod no longer requires turn in to seat and the lever is somewhere between the all the way in and all the way out point?
Lock the adjuster nut down while holding the adjuster from turning. Got it!
Work the clutch lever several times before adjusting the free play at the cable adjuster. Adjust the free play to 1/16" to 1/8" as measured at the pivot. I usually add just a little slack as a personal preference. Got It!
Work the clutch several times to make sure operation is smooth and no binding in any part of the travel. Got it!
I am hoping this will get my engagement close to the middle of lever action, right now it is near the end of release.
#9
04-12-2017, 01:08 PM
to: Blueangel73 The problem is that they need to make thick and thin plates so you can get the pack height correct. I build off-road racing transmissions for a living and I set clutch packs to a certain height using thick and thin steels.
All that being said, try adding an old steel from the stock clutch.
**Also this clutch and spring are for sale. Make me an offer. I hate having too much **** in my garage.
All that being said, try adding an old steel from the stock clutch.
**Also this clutch and spring are for sale. Make me an offer. I hate having too much **** in my garage.
#10
04-12-2017, 08:19 PM
Thanks, but a little late. I opened the case up last night and put the stock spring back in, feels way better. Now I just need to figure out the adjustment of the clutch. I do what the book says, but still end up with the clutch engaging /releasing with the lever almost completely out. I would like to have it more towards the middle of the lever stroke. I went to the technical part of the forum and to the section about clutches and did some reading, still a little confused. I made a post, but the thread isn't very active and who knows when I'd get a response. Here is what I posted.