Made some progress on the bike Last night on the bike. I know a lot of this info has been posted on other threads but I like to be informative and whenever Ive searched for detailed info, its usually hard to find so I try and document things for everyone interested. So apologies for long reads but I like technical info so here it is for all you other people like me.

These are 14" Luck Daves San Diego bars, very popular over the last couple years, but for good reason. One piece design and at just under 28" wide, they're narrow for splitting lanes yet wide enough the easily control the bike at high and low speed turning. The pullback of the grips and angle provide a natural position for the wrists and arms so you don't cramp or get numb on long rides. Good welds and on piece design are good to run the wires all the way down to the tree.

Note: For anyone wondering about the length of the wiring who hasn't done this before, please DO NOT waste your money of extended electrical wiring, for Dynas at least. I don't know about any other models, but there is plenty of wiring under the backbone of the frame as shown below.

Difficulty level of pulling and re-routing wires is maybe a 3-4/10. It helps to mount the bars to the tree and pull from there, that way your bars aren't moving around on the table and they're solid so you can give it hell. The wires aren't going to rip, or come out of the connector so you can give a good tug to get them through. These new bikes have such small connectors that you don't have to un-pin the wires from the connector, they fit through most pre drilled bars for internal wiring. What I did was remove the rubber wrap on the wires and run them "naked" though the bars. It helps to get some extra electrical wire or a shoes lace, or string ran through the bars, that way you can take tape the control wires and pull them all the way through the bars and you're done. For fly-by-wire applications, there is 3 sets of wires that need to be pulled from the throttle side - Switch housing wires, throttle wires, and turn signal wiring. Clutch side is just switch housing, and turn signal wiring. Assuming you're still keep thing the turn signals at the stock mounting position.

Next up, but before mounting the bars was installing the GPR Stabilizer and new top clamp. This is easily done by supporting the font end on the ground and loosening the stem nut which is 1 1/2" on these Dynas - FXDL/S, FDBD, FXDWG. Remove the pinch bolts and slide the OEM clamp off. Install the new clamp provided and install in reverse order, set fall away and you're good to go. Torque pinch bolts at 30-40 ft/lbs. Install GPR and ride hard.

Got rid of the trashed intake and hung it up on the wall. I like the look of the cylinders being visible, especially with Screamin' Seagull 110 tabs on the heads, but Ill probably put the same intake back on since it did save the tank. Finished product pics and the gauges set in the new gauge mount. I listed the part numbers for the gauge transfer in a previous post so check that out if you missed it. I have to order harness and a gauge clamp to mount to the bars since there are no bungs on these bars to mount it to. Those are coming this week as well as new brake and clutch lines and ill be done with the bars. Ill post the install and details of those when finished. Later today, Ill probably pull the tins and get them to my painter for repairs and paint. Thanks for reading as always.

 

Nice bro. You're doin a great job with this build thread. I'm especially grateful for the pics of the wiring, cause I thought I would have to extend mine for my bars (because they are internally wired ape hangers) and this gives me some hope that maybe I'll be ok without extensions. Fingers crossed. Thank you

 

Man the bike is looking good. You are reassuring me about fishing wires thru the bars. I had hell with my road glide tears hopefully this will be easier

 

The Lucky Dave's Bars are awesome. I have the 13" 13 bars and couldn't be happier.

I for one had issues though pulling wiring through on the throttle side... Finally used some weed whacker wire/line and that worked like a charm. Think I saw that advice on Robbyville's post and glad I did.

Have you put the GPR stabilizer on all your rides?

 

Great work and good info about the canbus wiring.

I'm 6'1, how tall are you? Would love to see a side on pic with you on the bike for comparison of the riding position.

 

The throttle side was kind of a b*tch, I pulled the controls/signals first, then did the throttle wires and that was easier than the first time I tried them all at once. Having a guide wire makes it a million times easier.

I have a GPR on my FXDX and its well worth the money. Train tracks, freeway grooves, and potholes and crappy SoCal roads are like glass with the GPR at any speed. What I tell people they ask is, one handed riding at 45-50 without a GPR is smooth and nice. Well, its feels the same at about 80-90 with a GPR, solid tracking and no sketchy moments when you change lanes or hit freeway grooves. Best money Ive spent for the bikes. They have 20 clicks of adjustment from 0-20, at 20 its very hard to turn the bars. 0 is like normal without it installed. I usually run my DX at like 5 around town and on the freeways I step it up to about 10-15 or more depending on how I'm riding that day. 20 is for parking at bars when I dont want people to mess with it or roll it away or when i have it jacked up and Im working it so the wheel doesn't flop around.

 

Im 5'4" and they're comfy, I usually don't go higher than 12" but I sat on a bike that had 14" and it was perfect, especially since most seats Im interested in sit you up about 2" taller than stock so it will be perfect. Ill get a pic posted for you when I pull the tins later today.

 

Thanks Gents, I almost snipped the excess 20" or so to shorten them with new connectors but the CANBUS is so finicky I didn't want to risk it. Its kind of a PITA to stuff them back in the neck but with patience it is doable.

 

Got some parts pulled and tucked the wires back in the frame, having mondays off is the greatest thing ever! Taking the long rear fender, front fender, and tank to the painter maybe today. I originally wanted to keep it simple on this bike but Im at a loss between something cool, which will remain a secret if I go that route, or something simple. Im torn, Ill have to flip a coin since I can't decide.

Anyways, pictured below is a little spot that has a plastic cover that is removable and its a good spot to hide the excess wiring that was pulled through the backbone. It just pops right out and goes back in after you're done. Its much more accessible with the tank off too.

 

Here you go Brasher, 5 foot 4 inches. Ill probably get another Saddlemen for this bike as well which will sit me up about 2" higher, which is why I went with 14". I have 10" risers w/ bars on my other bike and with the Saddlemen Step-up seat, I didn't anticipate the higher seating position. I have some 12" Bung King risers that are going on the DX when I get more cash for longer cables.