Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Is there a quick and easy way to clean/rinse out (oil came out black) the inside of sliders without dismantle?
If not, do I definitely need the drift tool to remove the caps?
when i rebuilt my 2012 forks, the oil ok looking but, full of grainy particles. when i tore the forks down, there was thick grain metallic sludge in the place you cant really flush must have been building up there from the bike being ridden in Maine.
The safest way to flush the works would be to by the lightest fork oil you can find, remove the fork spring and run the fork up and down without the springs and drain.. Then fill with desired for oil.. You could probably use mineral spirits as a flush also but I've not done it so you are on your own.. You can find light fork oil as most any cycle shop that supports sport or dirt bikes.. I generally go there for my fork oil anyway.. You get 32 oz for the same or less that what HD wants for 16 oz. I use Specto or Maxima but most any fork oil is good.
Then there is always the disassemble, clean, and rebuild it now option and know it is good...the OEM rebuild kit and a quart of oil will cost you around $55, more or less.
I am slow and methodical and from past experience, it should have taken me around 3 hours to lift the bike, pull the caliper and fender, drop and rebuild the tubes, and reinstall everything. The first time I did this, I used an aftermarket kit that saved me a whopping $10 over the OEM and promptly blew out both sides. I replaced the seals with OEM parts with no more problems for awhile. Use the OEM kit...online for around $40.
The the last time I rebuilt my front tubes is when I installed Progressive springs, I got the Harley kit from my local dealer and a quart of oil and was going along just peachy when I let myself get distracted and carelessly screwed up the assembly process. Nothing serious, but it took some time and a cheap part to fix.
The result is better front suspension more suited to me and I know how it all works and the tubes were thoroughly cleaned and all the wear parts are new and it was done right...even fixing my mistake.
Is there a quick and easy way to clean/rinse out (oil came out black) the inside of sliders without dismantle?
If not, do I definitely need the drift tool to remove the caps?
It's a 2011 WideGlide
Kindest Regards
Richard
Tear em apart and do it right
Small punch or screwdriver to remove the dust cap
Adjustable or socket (I forget the size) to remove the end caps
Long 12MM hex bit to remove the bottom end fork bolts
Seal driver
Loosen, but don't remove, the end caps prior to removing forks from the clamps
When you do remove the end caps put a towel over the end to keep parts from flying everywhere, or in your face
Upfront cost is nominal, but cheaper than having it done - then you have the tools for the next time
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If you don't completely drain and clean - just putting contaminated oil back into the system
One other note
Use brake cleaner to clean tubes - but then re-lube the insides of the tubes before installing the new internals
Makes it easier to install the bushings and seals..., and less prone to tearing the seals..., having the bushings come/ slip loose while reinstalling
Is there a quick and easy way to clean/rinse out (oil came out black) the inside of sliders without dismantle?
If not, do I definitely need the drift tool to remove the caps?
It's a 2011 WideGlide
Kindest Regards
Richard
Easy? Sure! The best way to "rinse" out the internals is to pour in some paint thinner (NOT lacquer thinner!) and work the fork a few times. Repeat until the effluent comes out clear. I'd let them air dry for a couple hours, then pour in some fresh fork oil of your choice.
+1 on what Norty Flatz said. But you have to realize that is only a "pretty clean" method. Depending on your mileage and years since last oil change you really should consider taking them apart and inspecting the bushings for wear. Or if your seals are leaking then definitely pull them apart because your bushing are probably shot.
For the seal driver, I have a section of exhaust tube that I use. It works perfectly at a fraction of the cost of an actual fork seal tool. Learned it from an old grey beard and been doing it ever since.
To remove those pretty chrome caps that hide the seals, you don't need a brass drift. I used the end of a 3/8 extension. Just set it under the lip in the indentation in the lower, the pop the far end with a hammer. The idea is to push the cap upward in relation to the tube angle. Should pop right up. Some say flathead works but I found it too want to bent **** up.
11-19-2016 | 06:56 AM
