Sure are. Baddest wheels on the market!

 

Agree'd. I was thinking about doing the same thing and realized the cost. I think when the time comes to replace the front end, it'll just be new shock inserts...probably Ohlins.

 

Should you decide to do that, I think they make just about everything else to make it fit...

Shame it's so damn expensive, would be a nice addition to the new LR....

 

One of the problems you'll find with Jap bike forks is that they are not long enough for a HD. Especially with 17 inch wheels.. Not sure I've seen Turboprop over here but he's got a good handle on extending the busa forks for HDs.

 

If you look carefully you will see the exact same shaped triple trees that I designed and marketed years before these two took my trees & accessories to a machine shop and knocked them off. Two (You already know) using the same machine shop. I designed with the assistance of a mechanical engineer & metallurgist (I paid them) and manufactured them here in South Florida. It is very easy to steal a design than put it on a CMM than copy it. My design on the caliper brackets make sure there is no deflection as these are bolt on. I do not use cheap 7071 T6 for the caliper brackets as that is the wrong material. My design is for function not cosmetic. My design is based around a 4" trail shared by a 29 degree neck rake on XR1200 & some Sportsters and Dynas. I was asked by OhlinsUSA to design this system for the then new XR1200 race class. I also make a wide glide version. For someone who posts>> Best quality front end options for Dyna << you should include the word copied from Howard Messner. I have sold many of them and even had one customer T-Bone a car at 40mph and the HD Dealership who purchased them from me just replace the forks & components but not the trees.

I also have come out with a new set of triple trees for FLT's utilizing the same triple trees for both conventional 49mm OEM and inverted forks. My design has be out on several bikes here with reviews on HDF. I now patent my designs to deter scumbags from stealing.

I make a set of triple trees to clamp top and bottom forks that I started on in 2007 and discussed why right here. HD now does the exact same concept in 2014. In no way am I saying HD copied my idea as they are perfectly capable of recognizing their design flaw from 1986~2013. There was no 2014 when I started in 2007. My design incorporates the trees into 1986~2013 FKT's and allows the Road King nacelle to work as it should. The Road King nacelle is the hardest to do and the rest of the bikes are easy after that. One set of trees fits all perfectly.

You can view my FXD, XR1200, FXR, and Sportster MidGlide trees here. Look at the engineering and structural weight saving design along with a brake T & built in steering stabilizer mounting.

LINK

This is my 49mm & Inverted FLT patented designed trees. The top is 7071 T-6 & the bottom is made of 17-4 PH with a welded in 17-4 PH steering stem. I designed these trees to have the most amount of clearance between the bottom of the neck to bottom of the triple tree to allow the fender not to hit on my increased maximum compression stroke unlike HD and others cheap slab design. This is engineering both structural and forward thinking design. These trees have been tested on the road since 3.1.14.



Inverted forks inside the same triple trees. I make my own Axle Clamps/Fork Bottoms so no hacked together spacers are necessary to install your OEM axle, wheel and fender onto an either inverted fork by: Ohlins with 30mm cartridges or KYB available with Ohlins 30mm or standard KYB 25mm Cartridges.



This is the first bike with the 49mm forks on a 2011 RG. The inverted forks will look very much the same as far as rake and steering stem offset (which controls trail).

 

Just because the fork is inverted does not mean it handles well. Depending on what year Hayabusa the forks came off of, the earlier models have a 25mm cartridge which needs to be re-valved and the cartridge bodies hard anodized to prevent silver (worn cartridge material) from contaminating the fork oil which happens to all of them. The springs are 0.85Nm which are far too weak as a spring change is necessary. The later ones are 20mm which are way too small of a diameter piston to support the weight of a HD. The latest Hayabusa uses a very cheap Showa Big Piston design which is by far the worst of the three but they are cheap to buy for the factory. The KYB 25mm are not as good as the 30mm Ohlins cartridge system by a long shot. How do I know this? I have spent a few years working it out on my and other conversions. This is my daily driver. This is a 2005~6 Hayabusa that is modified.

 

Yeah I really don't know the details of the internals other than the forks were extended. Knowing Ed, I'm sure the valving and springs were modified..

How does 0.85Nm compare to kg/mm?

 

You are very technologically motivated so to do yourself a favor and go to my site under DIY (do it yourself) and see my spread sheet table and look it up. You will now know how to do it forever. That old bible story about giving the fisherman a fish V/S a hand grenade in place of a net. Hope this helps. Yes, I do know the answer because I do it every day. Good luck on being interactive.

Rate Conversion N/n to lbs/in to kg/mm (Microsoft
Excel 97-2003 Work Sheet Application.xls)Application.xls Download

When it opens left click on the red arrow printer "Force Conversion"

 

Thanks.. The spread sheet shows me that your Nm is really Newtons per Millimeter so I can punch the numbers out on a calculator. Don't need the spreadsheet..

With that in mind.. 0.85 N/mm is way light.. Are you sure you don't mean 8.5 N/mm? Or Kg/mm?

How much travel does the busa front end have?

 

Perhaps not as high dollar as the other solutions mentioned but I am VERY pleased with my Ricor suspension set up. Front and rear cost was under $1000 and the improvement was fantastic both in ride and handling.