If you line the wheels up perfectly but have a heavy side to the bike, what's the bike gonna do when you let go of the handlebars??

 

I know what your saying but Bmw or harley id still prefer for it NOT to pull to one side. I have it super close with the inclinometers but still pulling. Just trying to see what people think about adjusting at the stabilizer or going back to the fall away test again. Or just deal with it. Not looking for any problems down the road.

 

From an engineering perspective I would think that fall away adjustment and overall wheel alignment (front to back) has more significance the larger the rake angle is.

But ultimately - unless it is really messing up your riding I wouldn't worry about it.

 

First, get soapy water and scrub your tires let them dry and look for cracks in the sidewall and tread. Yes, scrap the tire[s]. No, continue below.

Second, get the bike on the stand, remove the rear wheel, stick your finger in each wheel bearing and rotate the bearing, both should be smooth. Pull the lower shock bolts and try to move the swingarm side to side, it should not move side to side or go click.

Third, check the steering head on the frame, snap a chalk line on the floor, with the bike on the stand and the rear wheel off, use the flat pan ahead of the rear shock mounts to level the bike [use door shims under the frame], buy build or steal 2 plumb bobs, attach the first plumb bob to the rear fuel tank mount and center the string on the frame backbone and drape it between the shock mounts and let it hang behind the swingarm pivot [EDIT: remove both fenders]. center the front tire on the chalk line and the rear plumb bob on the chalk line [ensure the rear string is dead center on the backbone and hanging stright]. remove the front wheel without moving the bike [check the bearings], tie the second plumb bob to the bolt that holds the brake hose to the bottom of the steering stem and center the string on the bolt. If everything goes according to plan the two plumb bobs should fall within the chalk line, if not... you might need to consult with a frame shop.

: Mike

 

Hi Bwoltz,
A great question, an example of sorts, say you install a performance header and you loose 20 lbs off the right side of the motorcycle and then you install a solo bag with 10 lbs of stuff in it on the left side. After a hundred miles you don't notice the change in handling anymore, you may sit on the motorcycle in a slightly different position than you did when it was stock or you may not even notice.
Harley's have such a low C.G. the offset in weight is better tolerated than on somthing like a sportbike. I belive and this is only an opinion, the offset is used to tune the chassis to be bolt upright at 70 mph on a un-crowned road with the avarage butt perfectly centered in the seat. After removing the offset, I may have to offset my butt 1/2" inch to the right [I suspect less] to componsate for the shift in axial C.G. So to answer your question if I take my hands of the bars at speed the motorcycle will continue on in a stright line.

: Mike

 

In my experience, cross wind and road crown (or ruts) make far more difference than minor bike balance.

 

Well, I thought the question was rhetorical but I guess if you subconsciously move your butt, it's not..

 

Good thing about SoCal is that we don't have much crown in the roads here.. Not a lot of rain.. Do get some good winds tho.. Does make you wonder whether some of the offset might be for road crowns..

 

Ohio roads are pretty bad. Not Michigan bad, but pretty bad.


I don't think anybody has mentioned that our (Dyna) rear.alignment is adjustable in every axis. I believe that's part of the problem with the spotty handling among owners. There are four rear suspension adjustment points. Three drivetrain mounts plus rear axle. Getting all four lined up requires a methodical approach and solid isolators...and swingarm bearings. There's a lot to go wrong and I've never heard of a dealer that handled lateral drivetrain alignment. Without properly aligned drivetrain/swingarm, there is no point in using the rear axle alignment holes...

 

Well.. IMO, you start with by using the rear axle alignment holes mainly to get the pulley lined up so the belt tracks correctly then get the rear wheel pointing at the front wheel and in the same vertical plane..