Got it. So are readings for the rotors within one degree acceptable or do i need to adjust at the stabilizer? Guess ill have to go for a ride and see how it tracks.

When i made the minor adjustment on friday in the rear axle the pull to the left was less than before. Lets say i go for a ride and i still pull left. Then what? Am i going back to the rear axle again or should i start thinking about checking the steering head bearing/fall away again?

 

Hi Norty Flatz,
Wheel offset is common from a variety of manufactures, BMW does it also. The reason for offsetting a chassis is not very clear although I have heard a lot of stories...
The actual benefit of removing offset is not realized under normal riding conditions with a stock chassis. Only after you have shoveled a ton of money into quality long travel shocks (you need 5 inches of rear suspension travel measured at the axle), a good fork kit, a Positrac or other chassis stabilizer, a fork brace if you need it, a precision alignment, and good tires. At this level you need a good understanding of chassis sag, spring rates, compression and rebound damping. Anytime during this process feel free to remove the offset from the chassis, it adds precision to the steering during "S" bends and kills mystery bar wag at high speeds.
What you have when your done is still a 650 lb motorcycle that rides as stiff as a sport bike, vibrates a bit more than stock but will hammer a 110 mph sweeping turn with no drama. You will be able to go to the drag strip and launch constantly and do burnouts without the tail swinging to the right, track days are possible without hurting yourself, and if you want to run at El Mirage and do land speed racing, your good to go as far as your engine will take you (and... a lot of folks don't "get it" and the bike will look funny to them).
Actually this is what I built my Dyna for, a multi purpose street legal race bike, it's not good at anything but it can do it all. I'm pushing 60 years old but I still want to go racing for as long as I can.

A streetable Harley race bike at El Mirage last year, It ran over 140 mph, if I remember correctly.


Me after an epic battle for 8th place in 1989, KTM LC4


: Mike

 

Ideally you want alignment with the steering stem in the frame.. Since it is hard to do I use the front rotor after jacking around the bike on a lift to ensure the front wheel is lined up with the rear..

I ignored the offset when going to a 180 tire (2000 frame) and centered the wheel.. I was able to get most of the offset by shifting lacing on the wheel.. IIRC it wasn't as much as shown, early frame. One flat loosen one side and on flat tighten on the other is good for somewhere between 25 to 50 thou.. (don't remember the exact number)..


Spacer stuff is good.. I typically use 4130 for inner spacers (between bearings) and either 316 or 416 stainless for the outer.. HD inners look real close to 4130. The stock HD outers are a bit harder than a grade 8 bolt but they don't really need to be that hard.. I use 1 1/2 inch bar and cut a flange for the swingarm side for more support..

 

I laced my wheel with the rim centerline planar with the hub spoke flange centerline (not the hub centerline) and then adjusted the rest with spacers. I just don't like the idea of different spoke lengths/tensions on either side of the rim.

I still need to dig into frame/swingarm alignment. That will be this winter. I know the few changes I already made affected a huge improvement in handling and stability.

 

I understand the comfort feeling.. + or - 0.125 really don't make much difference.. Some wheels HD specifies an offset when lacing.. I have run wheels with significant offsets, don't feel comfortable with it either..

 

hmmm... well the bike feels fine since putting on the wheels after the new tire install. I'm about to leave for Las Vegas and weather is finally somewhat decent enough (highs not going beyond 100) to take the bike.

Now I'm all kinds of freaked out. Thinking once I get to LV I'll find a place to get the alignment checked just to keep my mind at ease.

 

I have since ridden twice and continue to have a decent pull to the left. Next step here? It seems like the adjustment of the top stabilizer is to bring the rotors into alignment which I thought i had pretty damn close Should i move on to this step and try to get the rotors even closer here?

 

There is the possibility that ballparking is all you really need as long as it's not way off. The last Dyna I had was a 98 DWG and I used to have an L shaped rod with a real small O ring that fit rather tight. It was crude but I never had any excessive wear or 'Pulling'. Just get it close, it's not a space craft it's a Harley.

 

You might have something else going on....I'd bend the ear of a Service Tech.....then do the exact opposite LOL. Just kiddin' use it as a reference.

 

Good post Mike.