Lazarus Project: 2012
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cvaria (05-29-2017)
#833
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 12,365
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started right up in the morning. so after it worked out a few times, i modified the old tune and increased the fueling.
#834
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 12,365
Received 2,201 Likes
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got my 50 in...
didn't go down without incident though. i got about 2 miles down the road and as i rolled to a stop at an intersection, the bike just cut off. started right back up, then cut right back off. figured it was a idle speed thing and the little easy start thing were dropping in so i just started it up and held the throttle slightly open. worked out for a while but, i figured it might be a tune related issue so i switched to auto tune. bike held up just fine after that, no need for me to hold the throttle.
knocked out the 50 auto-tune saving changes every 10 or so miles and circled back for an oil change. still no sign of the "idle" shut off.
took it back out after the oil change on a honey-do trip to walmart. coasting through the walmart lot, the bike shut off. started up again... and shut off. same hold the throttle stunt got me home. pull into the drive way... and it stayed on.
i need to review the tune and talk to s&s.
observations:
1.you can hear the easy start cams do their work.
after a start, you can hear the engine stumble as the rpms rise, then you'll hear the brief tapping of the easy start mechanism swinging up at around 800 rpm, goes tapping goes away and the engine sound normalizes.
2. good lord.... the torque blast at around 3000 is crazy. the super sporty has nothing on this madness and i haven't even upped the throttle body and manifold.
3. the stock clutch is not slipping at all. i'm still going to up it but, it's fine.
overall i'm happy, 100% happy. i let it rip a few times, wow. that torque is just crazy. i wonder how much better it will be with a 58mm a/c / throttle body and manifold (if i don't get a one piece)
didn't go down without incident though. i got about 2 miles down the road and as i rolled to a stop at an intersection, the bike just cut off. started right back up, then cut right back off. figured it was a idle speed thing and the little easy start thing were dropping in so i just started it up and held the throttle slightly open. worked out for a while but, i figured it might be a tune related issue so i switched to auto tune. bike held up just fine after that, no need for me to hold the throttle.
knocked out the 50 auto-tune saving changes every 10 or so miles and circled back for an oil change. still no sign of the "idle" shut off.
took it back out after the oil change on a honey-do trip to walmart. coasting through the walmart lot, the bike shut off. started up again... and shut off. same hold the throttle stunt got me home. pull into the drive way... and it stayed on.
i need to review the tune and talk to s&s.
observations:
1.you can hear the easy start cams do their work.
after a start, you can hear the engine stumble as the rpms rise, then you'll hear the brief tapping of the easy start mechanism swinging up at around 800 rpm, goes tapping goes away and the engine sound normalizes.
2. good lord.... the torque blast at around 3000 is crazy. the super sporty has nothing on this madness and i haven't even upped the throttle body and manifold.
3. the stock clutch is not slipping at all. i'm still going to up it but, it's fine.
overall i'm happy, 100% happy. i let it rip a few times, wow. that torque is just crazy. i wonder how much better it will be with a 58mm a/c / throttle body and manifold (if i don't get a one piece)
The following 2 users liked this post by cvaria:
slvrscoobie (05-29-2017),
Tall Timber (05-29-2017)
#835
Glad to see you got it going! I'll bet it's a torque beast, and will set your azz back!
2 things, in your last video it's idling WAY to slow. You need it idling real close to 1K or you'll starve it for oil. You can get by with 950^, but your way lower than that. That will probably solve your stalling issues as well. The other thing is when you made your map 10% richer, you probably went to rich. Try like 3% and see what it does. When you go to rich it will make the idle rougher, and you'll suck to much fuel. When you can get it dyno tuned, and if the tuner is good you'll love the results.
2 things, in your last video it's idling WAY to slow. You need it idling real close to 1K or you'll starve it for oil. You can get by with 950^, but your way lower than that. That will probably solve your stalling issues as well. The other thing is when you made your map 10% richer, you probably went to rich. Try like 3% and see what it does. When you go to rich it will make the idle rougher, and you'll suck to much fuel. When you can get it dyno tuned, and if the tuner is good you'll love the results.
Last edited by W.Glide; 05-29-2017 at 07:34 PM.
The following users liked this post:
cvaria (05-29-2017)
#836
I might be talking out my *** here, but I can't imagine a 58mm throttle body will help your torque at all. More power near redline, yes, but my son's 2.0L 4 cylinder makes about 200 HP naturally aspirated @ 7200 rpm and it has a 54mm throttle body.
If you can, monitor your injector duty cycle and fuel pressure. I may have missed it if you already addressed this, but with a displacement/power bump like this you may be approaching (or exceeding) the limit of the fuel pump and injectors.
If you can, monitor your injector duty cycle and fuel pressure. I may have missed it if you already addressed this, but with a displacement/power bump like this you may be approaching (or exceeding) the limit of the fuel pump and injectors.
Last edited by cggorman; 05-29-2017 at 08:37 PM.
The following users liked this post:
cvaria (05-29-2017)
#837
#838
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 12,365
Received 2,201 Likes
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Glad to see you got it going! I'll bet it's a torque beast, and will set your azz back!
2 things, in your last video it's idling WAY to slow. You need it idling real close to 1K or you'll starve it for oil. You can get by with 950^, but your way lower than that. That will probably solve your stalling issues as well. The other thing is when you made your map 10% richer, you probably went to rich. Try like 3% and see what it does. When you go to rich it will make the idle rougher, and you'll suck to much fuel. When you can get it dyno tuned, and if the tuner is good you'll love the results.
2 things, in your last video it's idling WAY to slow. You need it idling real close to 1K or you'll starve it for oil. You can get by with 950^, but your way lower than that. That will probably solve your stalling issues as well. The other thing is when you made your map 10% richer, you probably went to rich. Try like 3% and see what it does. When you go to rich it will make the idle rougher, and you'll suck to much fuel. When you can get it dyno tuned, and if the tuner is good you'll love the results.
I might be talking out my *** here, but I can't imagine a 58mm throttle body will help your torque at all. More power near redline, yes, but my son's 2.0L 4 cylinder makes about 200 HP naturally aspirated @ 7200 rpm and it has a 54mm throttle body.
If you can, monitor your injector duty cycle and fuel pressure. I may have missed it if you already addressed this, but with a displacement/power bump like this you may be approaching (or exceeding) the limit of the fuel pump and injectors.
If you can, monitor your injector duty cycle and fuel pressure. I may have missed it if you already addressed this, but with a displacement/power bump like this you may be approaching (or exceeding) the limit of the fuel pump and injectors.
stay away from the dealer... don't do it...................... yet...
Last edited by cvaria; 05-29-2017 at 09:32 PM.
#839
Not that I know what I'm doing either, but after reading the info
available at Hammer Perf's website, I'm not convinced you
need to switch to a 58mm TB/AC. Seems like more trouble
than its worth.... (just IMHO)
good luck,
T. (investigating extrude honeing)
#840
will try these suggestions. i'm not opposed. i have no idea what i'm doing. the 10% may be causing the slow idle. i also to a look at the tune results from the auto tuning... the displacement has some how changed to 128.7cid , baffling.
stay away from the dealer... don't do it...................... yet...
stay away from the dealer... don't do it...................... yet...