Stripped Exhaust Port Threads
#33
I was just doing a bit of PM and found these fasteners to be really corroded. I am disappointed, since years ago, some companies like VW used a very special alloy fastener for exhaust studs and nuts. Evidently our Willie has ignored same....not sure about alloy, but rusty as hell on mine. So, before removal, it needs a bit of wire brush and lots of lube to prevent problems, if possible. One note after reading the thread, is that no lock tite will work at these temps. Note that just some heat is required to help remove fasteners when even the red is used....blue much less. Agree on using either anti-seize (note LOTS of different temp apps due to metals in the stuff....some go way above 2000F), or dielectric lube on electrics of ALL types. Lock tite required on the moving parts such as compensator, valve train drive gear, and so on. I agree with above statements that if properly torqued and sometimes locked, most fasteners will behave. I have been working on these things for about 50 years, including things like complete rebuild of honda 750 in the early 70's. Lots of harleys, lots of auto engines, and also an ME. Keys discussed earlier in thread are care on details, no short cuts on quality, and things seem to work. My rust does kinda **** me off....can't really PM something of poor quality, imo. Would also like to have seen a steel insert in the aluminum here??? I think I will try to wire brush and apply some high temp anti seize to help slow things down.
#34
I was just doing a bit of PM and found these fasteners to be really corroded. I am disappointed, since years ago, some companies like VW used a very special alloy fastener for exhaust studs and nuts. Evidently our Willie has ignored same....not sure about alloy, but rusty as hell on mine. So, before removal, it needs a bit of wire brush and lots of lube to prevent problems, if possible. One note after reading the thread, is that no lock tite will work at these temps. Note that just some heat is required to help remove fasteners when even the red is used....blue much less. Agree on using either anti-seize (note LOTS of different temp apps due to metals in the stuff....some go way above 2000F), or dielectric lube on electrics of ALL types. Lock tite required on the moving parts such as compensator, valve train drive gear, and so on. I agree with above statements that if properly torqued and sometimes locked, most fasteners will behave. I have been working on these things for about 50 years, including things like complete rebuild of honda 750 in the early 70's. Lots of harleys, lots of auto engines, and also an ME. Keys discussed earlier in thread are care on details, no short cuts on quality, and things seem to work. My rust does kinda **** me off....can't really PM something of poor quality, imo. Would also like to have seen a steel insert in the aluminum here??? I think I will try to wire brush and apply some high temp anti seize to help slow things down.
If you want an improves stud and nut, ARP has a kit that is probably the best.. Whats an ME.
#35
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