And no matter what method you use to repair the threads, do not get any metal chips in the exhaust port. This is VERY important!

 

Looks like the PO got scared and bailed. Probably best he take it to a mechanic.

 

But, the engine is FULL of metal!

 

My dad was a journeyman tool and die maker and also used to work on Indy cars. He could wear a white shirt and tie and not get dirty. And meticulous, wow! Learned a bunch from that man, thanks dad.

 

Unfortunately dealer flat rape pay tactics don't allow for you to leave clean as you came in. And it's for that reason I was the go to guy in the shop to fix cob jobs, I've worked at dealers where customers didn't like the quote we gave them, take it else where and tow it back with coffee cans and cardboard boxes full of parts and hardware. I've seen idiots drill broken exhaust bolts in 6.4 cylinder heads and go into the water jackets. AND it never could be bank 1 either. Always Bank 2 with the horizontal EGR cooler right in the way. I smartened up and refused flat rate all together. Especially when flat rate never took rust and corrosion into consideration, or paid to clean components properly both CP and warranfree.

My advise before heli coil, get a thread chaser from snap on. And tap and die set from MAC. MAC warranties their short length drill bits and their tap and die sets. The master set I have included fluted easy outs as well.

And I've unfortunately had to in some cases become acquainted with JB weld to repair cylinder heads from butchers who drilled into water jackets. Broken exhaust manifold hardware is my specialty as is thread repair.

We're building an engine, not a house! Don't toe nail it!

 

Today, damned if I didn't have a similar issue. I went to check the exhaust nuts, and the right top stud on the front jug was broken off. It was a real bummer, as the frame is dead center in the way to drill the old stud stub out. I had been checking the torque on all the exhaust bolts regularly, and never exceeded 60 inch/lbs...so I have no idea what caused the stud to fail. I think maybe the Thunder Header puts a lot of stress not the exhaust flange as the engine vibrates.

Anyway, since the broken stub was recessed about 1/8" in the head, I almost resolved myself to removing the head to fix it. I then glanced at the MIG welder in the corner and decided to give it a try. I spot welded the end of the stud in short bursts, adding metal to the stub until the welds built up a good 1/2" above the surface of the head. I then used vice grips on the weld to spin the stud right out. It was one of those last ditch attempts that I gave little chance of success...but it worked! The welding heat likely helped loosen the stub too.

Just thought I'd include it here as a technique to try for anyone with a similar issue. I figure I dodged a huge bullet, and hope it helps some other poor soul.

 

Good thinking!

 

I got it guys. Thanks for all your input.

 

Anti-seize is your friend

Ghost

 

There you are! So you left us hanging. What was the fix?