Yeah, I'd be much more concerned about pulling that primary myself.

OP, as far as the rear wheel, I don't THINK you have to completely remove it but you WILL have to loosen it all the way, pull the shock and it SHOULD slide on there.. Get the manual, you'll need it.

 

That's the point, I'm trying to get across. Focus on removing the rear wheel as being a big issue tells me the OP is not prepared for the job ahead. It can be done, but the rear wheel is the least easiest step.

 

That is a valid concern, but I already have the primary off. The belt is part of a bigger maintenance project I'm doing on the 2006 Dyna.

-replacing the Inner Primary Bearing with the Baker IPB to avoid the known 2006 Dyna inner primary bearing issue
-fixing the stator cover bolt issue by having somebody tack weld the bolts in place so that they don't back out
-replacing the final drive belt because it has a nail buried in it
-removing my forward controls and going back to the mid mounts.

I have most of the tools to do the job, and I have no problem with buying whatever I need. I do also have the Harley shop manual for my bike, it's just that I'm not a mechanic, and I don't always understand what they mean in the manual, and so I come here for advice. It's not that I'm not handy, I just like to be completely clear on some of this stuff before I move ahead on it so that I don't end up breaking something, or missing an important step.

 

You shouldn't have to remove the axle but you will have to loosen it and turn the adjusters in to allow enough slack for the belt to slip over the sprocket/pulley lips. Horizontal alignment is simple. The motion pro tool is pretty decent. I modified mine to make it better. I don't remember the part number but it was the long one that would do both Dyna and Softail. I cut off the Softail end and trimmed the short leg by about 1/2" so it didn't bottom out in the swingarm hole on the axle side. That way it sits parallel to the swingarm for both measurements. That may not be a problem on the late model swingarm. I don't know. For me, this was more accurate and less cumbersome.

 

Got it. In that case, read and re-read the manual. Let it sink in and relax. Maybe a YouTube video even if it is not for your model the concept will be similar.
Pay attention to Torque, thread lockers, adjustments, and tensions. Follow the MANUALs specs.

Take the wheel off, no need to fight it.
(Also I meant Least concern & easiest part.)

 

Thanks guys! I will remove the wheel since it will probably be the easiest way to do this it sounds like. I marked around the axle bolts on the swing arm with a silver sharpie marker, so I should be able to get it back on pretty close, then I'll do the final true-up with the baker tool. It will be good practice to get the rear wheel off anyway so that I can save a few bucks next time I need new tires.

Any advice on the steps to get the rear caliper out of they way? The manual seems to assume you are removing it to replace the brakes or work on it, so it seems like they want you to maybe disassemble it more than needed to get it clear of the rear wheel.

Oh well, Sears will be open soon, I have to grab a 28mm socket, and a 28mm wrench so that I can start this show.

 

Wipe off your marks. The new belt will be (should be) quite a bit shorter. Just slap it together and adjust based on the tension deflection specs.

 

I leave the caliper in place, not hard to move it aside, may want to zip tie or wire so it doesn't fall.

 

I had to go all over town to find a 28mm socket (AutoZone had one), but the belt is off finally. I'm going to head up to the HD shop and grab a replacement belt. Thanks for all of the help guys!

It's probably too late to ask this now, but is there any advantage to using a 3rd party belt, or you everybody suggest sticking with OEM for the final drive belt?

 

I've had several bikes with close to or over 100K still factory belt.
I have a 1980 Sturgis now with - Factory Dual Belt - Primary and Drive - both still original.
I've never actually broken on or worn one out, so I'd say the H-D is fine, unless you're going big HP, in which case consult some racing people.