I installed a Thundermax ECU on my new wide glide today and since I got so much intel on different ECU options on this forum I decided to share my experience.

1) Removing the electronics caddy is not as easy as the manual says (you have to remove it to modify it so if you don't have a dremel motor or air tools don't try the install). Not that it's really all that tough, but be prepared to innovate a little. For example, when the instruction say "use a small screwdriver to release the tabs and remove the fuse blocks from the caddy", it should say "spit, cuss, insert screwdriver, and push until you think it's going to break, then push some more".
2) The wire from the T-max ECUto the front O2 sensor is short which doesn't leave you many options for routing. The instructions tell you where to route the wire but that put it rubbing on the exhaust when I tried it. I found a way eventually.
3) One really irritating thing is that the cable that comes with the unit to link it to your computer is a female serial cable. All three laptops in my house require male connectors so I had to go to the store and buy a $30 cable to adapt it so it would work. I really don't understand how such a high tech product could come with such a crappy interface.
4) The software works well and there are plenty of base maps to choose from. Mine was premapped for my setup because I bought it directly from thundermax but I don't figure that matters. They also offer a money back promise which gave me some comfort after having wasted money on the V&H version of the PCIII. Guess I wasn't a genius after all.
5) The O2 sensors are easy to get out and the new ones went in easy as well. You will need a 7/8 crow foot wrench to get the rear one off though. By the way, the front plug for the stock O2 sensor is under the voltage regulator in what harley calls the front caddy.

Overall it has been a good experience so far. I've only walked through the idle setting at this point because of the time it took me to go get the computer cable. I've got about 4 hours invested at this point but I could probably do it in 2 next time. I'll write another post about the performance once I get some miles on it. Hopefully this will serve as payback for some of the advice I've been blessed with on this forum.

 

I am surprised the T-Max uses a female serial adapter.

I installed the DTT TCFI II sytem and the interface is through a USB cable, much neater and easier to use.

The T-Max uses longer O2 sensors than stock, any issues with clearances on the sensors??

I am starting another thread on the install of the DTT, actually the install of RBR LSR Blackholes wne using the DTT, definitely clearance Problems, but also with Rineharts and the HD Oil cooler/filter adapter.

 

I was really torn between the DTT and the Thundermax. It really came down to a flip of the coin. That and I felt like I got better information from the T-max web site.

As for the O2 sensor clearance, no problems at all. The cable length for the front and the rear is the same, hence the challenge in getting the front one routed properly.

I discovered tonight that the "pre-mapping" done on the module for me before shipping wasn't up to spec with regard to what they advise in the instruction. I got it cranked and noticed a really rough idle so I shut her down and started doing some research. I guess in the end you really have to be willing to learn the software if you are going to make these things work. It wasn't set for closed loop operation and it had the wrong speedo calibration. I've fixed those but the wife shut me down for the night because she said cranking her back up tonight would get the neighbors on our backs again.

I'm confident I'll have it all worked out sometime tomorrow.

 

Keep after it, I'm no dummy with this stuff, and it took me a good half a day to get everything worked out. One thing to note is that the T-Max has a plug that plugs into your bikes diagnostic port and it will not see the O2 sensors without it. Another thing is that the IAC has to be allowed to set itself, otherwise it won't idle right.

Keep playing with it, and you'll get it right after a while. Once I got mine figured out, it turned out to be the best thing I ever did to the bike.

 

Have to agree with you on the electrical caddy. I was trying to take it easy on it getting the fuse blocks out.
Once you get the basic settings set, and you get to ride it fora few on and off tuning sessions you are really going to like how it runs!

 

Can't really blame T-Max for those PITA fuse blocks. I have struggled with that myself. I like the T-Max auto-tune but they could provide a new inerface cable. I had to relocate my Smart Siren II as it is right where the cable exits the Auto-Tune[:@]

 

Hey Pshcho, Can you tell me more about this plug? I got her running today but the smartlink software is telling me it can't see the O2 sensors, just like you said. I didn't see that in the instructions anywhere???

All, I know I will be happy with the result once I figure it out and I'm not faulting Tmax for my ignorance, I just listed a few of the stumbling blocks I encountered so everyone would be aware. It's really not that tough a job to install the unit, it's the set up that's challenging me now.

 

Nevermind Pshcho, I went out to the garage and it hit me. I had forgotten to plug the module into the diagnostic port. I did so and then reset the module and took a ride. Awesome! It's not perfect but it's a ton better than any injected harley I've ridden in the past couple of years.

Thanks for the tip, I feel pretty stupid for doing everything someticulously and then forgetting to plug that thing in. Oh well, live and learn.

 

Good advice...thanks. I am ordering mine early this week along with pipes and a/c. CAN'T WAIT!!!!!

 

Glad to hear the install wasn't too bad and it is running good. With any closed loop tuner such as T-Max and Daytona Twin Tech TCFI II the more you play with it the more the software starts to make sense. I just installed new pipes today (the Blackholes) and upon start up in the mode where I can see real time data, there was a lot of difference in the idle air mix, and I could watch as the bike idled the DTT was making adjustments. I am curious, you said the IAC sets itself? With the DTT you muct adjust the IAC while the TB is warm, then adjust the TPS.