New Low Rider S
#2221
Canbus and tbw are very sensitive to resistance. One bad splice and you're getting errors. I've been told never solder anything canbus. Crimp only.
The following 2 users liked this post by Mchad:
5500 (04-25-2017),
e11charlie (04-27-2017)
#2222
I have been trying to debate on a different fairing setup for the bike. The speed screen doesn't cut it and puts wind right in my eyes with the visor open. Quarter fairing and the t sport fairing both appeal to be but all of a sudden the fxrt fairing and lowers have really hit me hard as thinking that it would look sick especially with the built motor. And be able to eat some miles up. Just wondering if anyone else would chime in on their thoughts. So many deicions on ways to go. Might just be wanting to bridge the gap on the road glide I used to have, but I do like the thought of a frame mounted fairing.
Not sure if my input amounts to anything on the fxrt fairing itself, but I seriously wanted to go this route when I got mine.. after looking around and knowing all the stuff I wanted to do to the bike, I decided I couldn't justify spending that much on it. I went with a tsport fairing from certified okc with a 14.5" shield and im completely happy with it. I have decent wind coverage and good to go. If you go the fxrt fairing and lowers route, post up! I know it does look damn good!
#2223
That's my bike. The fairing in that picture is a 39mm Ness (p/n 06-041) fairing modified by Southeast Customs. They call it the Ness OG. I picked mine up for $100 bucks from a forum member, but if you are interested I can tell you the way to build it for about $100-$150 less than what SE customs charges.
#2224
In my opinion, this is the easiest bike install taller bars. The FXDL-S does not require you to de-pin, splice or solder. It's simply connectors that you unplug. I literally just slid my wires down the handlebars and re-connected. No more pulling with wire or fishing line, etc. I went with 12" bars and I've seen guys go 14" with no need to splice or extend the wires.
The following users liked this post:
e11charlie (04-27-2017)
#2225
I just put a new Harley Davidson Daymaker on my 2017 Low Rider S a week ago. Took 10 min! Remove the outside 2 silver screws behind the screen (left and right) with allen wrench, then pull from bottom and where the screen is pushed on into rubber gromments. At the bottom of headlight is a single screw holding the ring that holds headlight on.
#2226
I got the rr3 Greg lutzka and I'm using Fuelpak 3. Anyone else using this setup? What map are u using? I'm trying the generic 2 into 1 and the Vance and Hines pro pipe and seeing which one runs better.
#2228
Gotta love the luck. Installed new bars last night and I should've stopped when I finally got all the wires ran thru but no I had to push ahead and managed to cross thread one of the abs lines. Now I'm hoping to fix it or I'll be shelling out over 100 bucks for a new line. Always something
#2229
cant really say yet. Generic ran pretty good. Slight popping on decel, with the auto tune it probably would have went away. The rear pipe at the top about an inch or two by the jug is turning purple slightly and I suppose that's normal. I read a few people are using the pro pipe so I wanted to try that so I turned it before work and rode it there and it felt about the same and then I got caught in a rainstorm coming home so I can't really say for sure. Right now the whole exhaust is golden and I'd really like to keep it that color because it matches the rims pretty good but I don't know how hard that is going to be.