Thanks for the post. I think Highwaymans hit the nail on the head with something being lost in translation about me installing these on a Low Rider S.

Regarding tuning the cartridges themselves, that adjustability is the entire purpose of doing the install in the first place so I'm not sure I follow your question about what will be done if they don't perform exactly as desired out of the box. I'm looking forward to being able to set it up to my riding style/liking!

Take care.

 

I didn't get that, either. I think Howard takes Ohlins and re-works them somehow. It seems to me that we are paying a premium price for Ohlins' exceptional engineering and quality, and the product should work great out of the box using the adjustment feature built into the design.

 

Just a heads up for others. I reached out to Ohlinsusa about these new cartridges for my Fat Bob. This was their response:

"The FKS 212 (Street Bob) and FKS 205 (Wide Glide) do NOT fit the Fat Bob model unfortunately. At this current time that is the only two models that we have available. Hopefully we will know more about what is going to be available for next year by the end of September or first of October."

 

I have a set of Low Rider Dyna forks I am currently putting 30mm cartridges in. They did not have a single cartridge. I have tossed many FLT premium cartridges which are the same thing. On line when I used the OEM Parts finder, St Charles and looked up FXDLRs but it only goes up to 2016. None have cartridges and none have a FXDLRs, FKDLR, yes.. I finally located a 2017 FXDLRs (Low Rider S). It did indeed have a different 45500233 OIL LOCK PIECE (LEFT) $11.25 that holds the cartridge in the bottom of the slider and uses a step type 45500236 SCREW (LEFT) $6.01. You are correct in that you need either another right side oil lock and new 45500118, SCREW M14 X 1.25 X 25 HEX SOCKET CAP which will work just fine as I have replaced them when converting them over to real cartridges. You are going to need another top out spring and manufacture an adapter to seat the top out spring in the fork tube. It sits on top of the check valve and is needed. I do not see anything in the kits I have. I do not have the fork tube of your exact bike in front of me so I have no idea if there is any place to to secure the top out spring in under the cartridge like the right side does.


When I read the post yesterday I must have overlooked the year motorcycle which is important to look at the parts list. The FKC which uses the same cartridge mount as this NIX 22 does, has a solution for OEM cartridges in one of their spring kits. I have absolutely no idea what a buffer tube is?


I make the NIX 30mm cartridges and been doing the for 7-8 years and have installed will over 100 sets of cartridges in that time. The reason why I did not manufacture this type of mounting system is because I cut the check valve out of the fork so I can have over 7 1/2" of stroke, can start and stop the stroke any place I want, change the value and length of the top out springs to control the ride quality of the top side of the stroke (rebound) unlike the very stiff top out 5/8" stoke OEM top out springs you must use.



Jeff, I re-work every FKC-101 & 102 cartridge. If you do not know something is wrong than you do not have to have it fixed. There are many on this forum who know it is wrong and I fix it for my customers only. Jeff, go to the track and at any given time you will see trailers with tuners as well as teams with their own full time shock tuners. Everyone there started out with out of the box shocks just as you. This does not mean just racing applications, street also. T hey all make over 6 figures tuning & adjusting shocks. Just because it comes that way from the factory does not mean they are correct for the individual riding the bike. Every one of my NIX 30 forks are tuned, re-valved and gone through to the customers satisfaction. If the customer is not happy and shows up we get it right if necessary. You can not do this through the telephone. Sometimes, more then not, it is not a matter of twisting *****. This technology you have just purchased was developed for the track and you all are using it for the street.


I will take pictures of the Ohlins cartridges as soon as my camera battery charges up due to inactivity. Later

 

Finding a way to "Secure the Top Out Spring" on the LR-S cartridge side tube has been a moot point for the "installers" on this thread so far

In Hooligan317's situation, he is changing his LR-S tubes to a std Tubes. (see below)

In Highwaymans' situation, he used a "Works" set-up (not Ohlins) in his LR-S (see below)





I guess that would allow people to re-use their Cartridge side LR-S tube and not have to get a std tube


I think he's referring to the Damper Tube, but may be wrong


.

 

From left to right: 20mm HD for most bikes., 22mm NIX, 25MM FKC-101/102, 30mm NIX.





From Top to bottom NIX 30, NIX 22, and FKC-102


Mounting Systems
On the bottom you will see a 2006~Current FXD check valve (cut out of fork tube). As per NIX 22 directions Ohlins indicate that you are to leave the top out spring in fork assembly. Unfortunately that is very difficult to do because you must put on the oil lock on the bottom of the cartridge mount. Look carefully at this, if you are in prison with time, you could play that game. I hope that Hooligan317 install works well as you need that check valve support and top out spring. Maybe I missed it as I did not read anyone mentioning it, you need top out springs!

As you can see the much more sophisticated NIX 30 has the ability to change and tune the top out spring. This makes the ride on the rebound the way you like it by changing the spring rate and rebound stroke which will control the top side such as what it feels like going in to the “pot hole”. There are many advantages to this.

The full stroke of the two NIX 22 & FKC-101/102 cartridges are controlled between the collapsed top out spring and bottom out. The NIX 30mm stroke is controlled with spacers either on top of the seal head and under the seal head. Start it and stop it where you want. Lowered forks, no problem. I lengthen the top out spring and get a stronger rate spring so the bike unloaded will have extended forks but stop where you want it. A long comfortable ride to be had there. To the guys with big wheels and no stroke. You will never get a decent, good, or great ride.

This system has been around for a very long time used in the light weight race bikes up to the 600CC class. The whole idea is not to just throw them in and turn some screws. Every aspect of the stroke is adjustable within the cartridges capabilities. The advantages of this system is cheap, tunable, easy to service & rebuild, and easy to use. Good luck to all.

By tomorrow AM (Maybe) I will be finished with these cartridges after a quick Dyno run to get a base line.

 

 

Have you ever tried to put the oil lock in the cartridge while the slider and fork tube are still together? Just like the FKG-101/102, that is what the Ohlins directions indicates. It is extremely hard to get the oil lock on. It may occur to you that I was composing the photograph post above with explanations during the post you wrote. I compose in WORD than copy and paste. You seam to think this job is hard and others have not done a cartridge system in a fork. My posts take a while to do and provide information that is not scanned, copied, than pasted. I come here to provide help to those in need. I do not wish to get into a pissing match over something stupid like the point you are making. This is a waste of my time.

 

Unfortunately, your response doesn't surprise me

No "Pissing Match" here

Information from you is always welcome... condescension...not so much (although I'm sure I've been guilty of that)

What "point" are you talking about?...Your previous post indicated to me (and I think others as well) that you hadn't read/seen the subtleties of Hooligan317 or Highwaymans installation (I think the only LR-S "Installs" in this thread so far), so I was trying to point out (Post#175) that the fact that the LR-S having one cartridge-fork-tube with it's potential obstacles didn't apply to them...and still doesn't.

I'm genuinely interested (technically) in a solution for the LR-S cartridge-fork-tube issue without the need of changing the tube and stated that in Post #175. I've never had those or similar in my hands, so I can't comment on the technical nature of that particular issue.

Nope...I'm just pointing out how Ohlins said to do it with pictures really for others to see the reference. Maybe we can get Frédéric CM (FXDB) or W.Glide (FXDWG) to comment as this is exactly what they had to do (maybe they just didn't comment about the difficulty)




I'm guessing here to your meaning...and maybe some of this doesn't apply...dunno for sure...
but don't misinterpret anything on the last post such as the large text as being anything more than basically a "Highlighting" of subtleties (sometimes are hard to pick out in Text, hence the "Highlighting").

Additionally, all the stuff about timing and "cut and paste" (again, if I understand you)...
It's not our responsibility as a Reader to make sure the Poster (which we don't even know is going to post) saw all the previous posts (or posts that you missed while formulating a post), that's on the Poster. Readers can be understanding of the situation, but not responsible.


Here's a suggestion for you (I know how you love those)...
Since this took a while to write (interruptions and such), I refreshed the thread to see if I had missed any applicable subsequent posts and will view the thread after the "post" again. I will then "edit" the posting if any applicable posts are seen.

You sure don't have to do that, but then don't complain that it happened...Really it takes no time

Now I hope we can get back to some good info with you involved of course

.

 

So in the interest obtaining usable info...

Frédéric CM (FXDB) or W.Glide (FXDWG)... can either of you comment on the installation of cartridge down through the tube into the awaiting OIL LOCK like the Ohlins Instructions state