Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Yea, I didn't see the thread until just now, I've been in the process of pulling the rocker covers and rocker assemblies to install the Bikerscum Rockout/DK Custom Rocker Lockers. That last touch of top end noise I can hear between 2300 - 2500 RPM is going to be permanently gone
This is the only real shot I've got that's sort of from the front, the WG is on the lift right now or I'd get you a new one. The riser extensions made a world of difference for me, I'd planned on swapping out the bars/risers but after trying the extensions I saw no reason to, very comfortable and look great
Very nice! I hope you are doing a write up on it.
edit: I just went over and checked them out. Seems super easy!
Last edited by BigDogIdaho; 10-27-2015 at 10:38 AM.
edit: I just went over and checked them out. Seems super easy!
I plan on doing a thread with some images when I button her up and get that test ride in next week; weather willing. I'll find all the ways not to do it and let you know Switching the engine over to LiquiMoly 10W-60 full synthetic made a huge difference in the top end noise and these little $15 gems ought to finish the job!
my rear is useless too. i think i need to adjust it as recommended.
back pain i had it until i adjusted to the bike.... assumed the 'C' shape.
i hated it during my first ride from jacksonville fl to baltimore md. (yes, the first time i rode it i took it 750 mile... because i'm stupid). now i love it. i was treating it like my sportster... it's not... i just need a reduced reach solo seat. , i'm 5'9... i don't want to sit upright and catch all that air.
Bike looks even better than stock with those risers. That's going to be my first port of call. Did you say you didn't have to extend any cables and is it an easy diy job. Thanks guys
Bike looks even better than stock with those risers. That's going to be my first port of call. Did you say you didn't have to extend any cables and is it an easy diy job. Thanks guys
Easy job, a second set of hands can be useful but you can certainly do it by yourself. You'll need to loosen the two brake line clamps so the brake line can slid into a new position; the clutch, throttle, and bar wiring has more than enough extra available for a 2" lift. From the underside of the top clamp loosen then remove the stock riser bolts, lift the bar/risers high enough to place an extension under one side and insert the new longer bolt through the top clamp bushings and into the riser; catch a few threads then do the other side and torque riser bolts to 30 - 40 ft-lbs. Snug up the brake line clamps and you're good to go...
The chrome cup washer/covers for the top clamp bushings may fall free so keep that in mind as you remove the riser bolts and lift the bars/risers off the top clamp.
When I installed my riser extensions I also changed out the cheap stock rubber top clamp bushings for solid chrome bushings. The bars/risers are now solidly mounted, no increase in vibrations and no annoying movement of the bars/risers
They aren't the best brakes, but certainly adequate. My pre-ABS front brake (floating rotor) are solid as a rock and work just fine although it takes a bit of hand strength. My rear brake (also floating rotor) is easily capable of locking up but the pedal does have some sponginess. Probably related to the long linkages and original rubber lines.
Before dropping serious coin on a new saddle, see if your dealer has the seat demo program and try out as many as you can. I bought my WG used and don't know if I got lucky, or if I just adusted to where the bars were but I have no issues (although on long rides I need to remind myself to check my posture). I have heard that if you sit on your bike with your eyes closed and a friend holding it upright, put your arms out in front of you like your grabbing the bars, do it a few times to confirm. That is where your position of comfort SHOULD be.
I don't have any issues with my brakes holding on a hill or stopping power, but I use my front brake more than my rear.
They aren't the best brakes, but certainly adequate. My pre-ABS front brake (floating rotor) are solid as a rock and work just fine although it takes a bit of hand strength. My rear brake (also floating rotor) is easily capable of locking up but the pedal does have some sponginess. Probably related to the long linkages and original rubber lines.
rears are trash. i got so pissed that i replaced the pads that were on there with lyndall z+, completely bleed and refilled the fluid, brake kleen'd &fn toothbrushed, to the 24th power, the entire assembly, replaces the pin, and did a rain dance..... still the rear brakes suck. they are there for show. if used, i'd use them with my fronts, but just in good habit. they don't stop the bike... they make the brake light come on... that's good, right?
10-27-2015 | 10:33 AM
