You need to wet color sand the clear with 1000/1500/2000 grit wet/dry paper and then buff with rubbing compound. May sure your clear coat dries for at least 24 hours if not longer before sanding and buffing. You can get most of the imperfections except large dust particles out with sanding. Check youtube for some good videos on how to do this. I painted my fairings and trunk with rattle cans from colorrite and they look better than my cars finish. Not quite like glass like a Harley, but close enough for me.

 

you will have to use some 180 sand paper and wet sand that old paint down till all the imperfections are gone. than switch to some 320 and wet sand till its smooth as glass. then use some adhesion promoter the help in the aid that the new paint wont peel seen you have used several different brand paints. which all act differently and could cause a chemical reaction and cause a lot of havoc. and then find a PPG dealer they will be able to match the vivid black all you will need is 4 oz plus some reducer its a 1:1 ratio will give you 8 oz of paint. than see if you can find some one that can shoot the paint for you. talk to the paint dealer i am sure they must know some one that can do it at a cheaper rate. oh by the way you can;t paint a whole car for $ 400.00 that covers maybe one fender now a days. and there is no such thing as black is black to many variations even in black that a good eye can pick out very easily!

 

I think colorrite says 3 days, at least thats what I waited. And I should have done 1500 grip paper, I only hit it with 2000 the a heavy cut detailing polisher, then a finish cut... and waited a few more days as they suggest before wax/paint sealant. WETSANDING IS KEY. little soap and water in a spray bottle and the 1500 then 2000 grit paper does wonders at knocking down orange peal.

 

If you still are painting your fairing and want to try AutoAir (Wicked line, Wicked Black) you will have to probably order it, I get mine from ChicagoAirbrush.com 4 oz's and some reducer will set you up for less than 12 bucks. I had a boo boo on the back of my fender, put a little bondo, sanded it down, primed it then shot the Wicked Black then clear and you can't even tell, if I get a chance I'll take a pic or two and post it

 

Based on the positive feedback here and Amazon (and the fact that paint shops and body shops here work bankers hours) I ordered Color Rite paint and clear in spray cans tonight. I wet sanded with 220 and then 500 grit tonight. Will probably work on it with more 500 grit while waiting on kit to arrive. I'll try to find some adhesion promoter and maybe some tack cloth.

Did you guys wet sand the paint between coats? If not, how long did you wait between coats? I've heard you need to respray within 2 hours or wait 48 hours. Does this mean you can do 3 coats 2 hours apart?

I've seen a video saying wet sanding not needed with Color Rite but everything else seems to recommend it. Obviously I'd prefer not to as I've already sanded way more than I ever wanted to. But if so, how long did you let it dry before sanding?

Did you wet sand final coat of paint before clear coating? One coworker says to do so with very fine paper but the finest wet grit I have is 1200. If not, how long did you wait between paint and clear coat? Does this fall within the 2 hour window mentioned above?

Another friend says the hair dryer is your friend for painting without having bugs land in the wet paint (yup, happened more than once already in my drama even though I put piece in garage while drying.) Does he know what he's talking about or will this cause uneven drying and splotching?

Sorry to ask so many questions but I'm really tired of screwing around with this and would like this to be the final painting episode for this fairing.

 

Do not sand between coats and do not sand the color coat! Follow the instructions and do at least 3 coats of color and clear each. You especially need to build depth on the clear coat for sanding. Only wet sand the clear. Just make sure you are in a dust/wind free environment and use a tack cloth if needed. Do not use any extra heat to dry. Just paint and wait like the instructions say. You can't rush this, trust me.

 

Just read the color rite instructions, they're easy to follow and it yields good results. DO NOT USE A HAIR DRYER to dry the paint, I painted my fairing on a card board box outside my basement then very carefully brought it in after each coat to avoid bugs, dust, etc in paint.

You'll only be wet sanding the final coat of clear after it cures for a day or two. I was able to find 2000 grit wet sanding paper at Wal-Mart of all places in the automotive area. So try there or any local parts store should have some.

I think I sanded my Fairing with 400 grit, then washed with warm water and dish soap, for the prep work. Drying it off after washing off old paint dust would be the only place to use a hair dryer. And tack cloth before each coat was nice, I caught a few pieces of lint, but not an absolute must. I tried to paint when the outdoor temp was close to my inside temp since I was bringing it in and out. As well light but evenly covered coats work best, while you'll want to rush it just take your time up front and you'll be happier in the end.

and you'll have to be careful when sanding on sharper curves and around the edges so that you do not cut through the clear coat. Only thing your hand does when wet sanding is move the paper in your slurry of soapy water, no down pressure.