Good Brand Wheel Bearings
#1
Good Brand Wheel Bearings
Looking for some good wheel bearings. Not looking to save 10 bucks and buy cheap *** chinese junk. I have no idea if the MOCO actually uses a reputable brand or not. Wouldn't be surprised if they don't. When I do a search for Timken 25mm bearings I'm finding nothing. Any suggestions of some reputable bearing companies that I can find myself some quality replacements.
#3
They do...
http://www.timken.com/en-us/products...s/default.aspx
... just looking for a decent wheel bearing. Doesn't have to be Timken as I stated.
http://www.timken.com/en-us/products...s/default.aspx
... just looking for a decent wheel bearing. Doesn't have to be Timken as I stated.
#4
I'd say you're good with either of these.
http://www.jpcycles.com/motorcycle-w...ings/all-*****
Timken 205PP Ball Bearing, Double Sealed, No Snap Ring, Metric, 25 mm ID, 52 mm OD, 15 mm Width, Max RPM, 1760 lbs Static Load Capacity, 3600 lbs Dynamic Load Capacity: Deep Groove Ball Bearings: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
http://www.jpcycles.com/motorcycle-w...ings/all-*****
#6
It is getting more difficult every day to find bearings made in USA, no matter who makes the package they come in.
I bought Timken axle bearings for my Crown Victoria, right on the package: Made In China. Back to the store they went...
You can`t trust the old standards anymore.
I bought Timken axle bearings for my Crown Victoria, right on the package: Made In China. Back to the store they went...
You can`t trust the old standards anymore.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; 07-02-2015 at 03:18 PM.
#7
Unfortunately, domestic bearings are a thing of the past. Even the old Kings of domestic bearings, like Timken as mentioned, no longer manufacture here in the states. Most bearings nowadays come from China, Taiwan ROC, Romania, Poland and Japan.
However, if you stick with the better brands, you will still get a very high quality bearing, even though it is not made here in the states. Some of the higher quality bearings available from your local bearing distributor and/or the internet are General, Koyo, Nachi, Timken, Fafnir, Peer ..... all have a very high quality radial ball bearing available. Just beware, many of them also are forced to market the cheapy bearing too to compete in the junk bearing market, so most have a premium line of bearings, and they also have a junk line of bearings, just be sure that you are not getting their cheapy, because they are not much better than the $2 bearings that you will find all over the internet.
The cheapy bearings have come a long way and are somewhat ok quality wise, but there is still a substantial difference between a premium bearing from one of the forementioned, compared to the import cheapy. The Timken's, Generals, Koyos, etc... all own their own factories in the country of origin, so they control the quality assurance, the raw materials, the tooling, the amount and quality of grease installed, etc.... so you pay more, but you also get a much better bearing. The cheapy bearings are contracted out to the lowest bidder, and there is very little quality control throughout the manufacturing process and you basically get what you pay for.
I don't know where the OP is located, but aside from the internet, there are a couple of National bearing chains that could sell you a quality brand of bearing, Motion Industries and Applied Technologies have branches all over the US. You will just have to tell them to stay away from the garbage, and they should be able to sell you a quality bearing, they don't sell stuff cheap though, so just be prepared...... you will need to know the ID, OD, and width of the bearing, in addition to the seal or shield arrangement of the bearing. Most street bikes use seals and not shields, and the seal is the plastic/rubber insert that is on sides of the bearing in between the inner and outer race. The bearing either has no seals (open), 1 seal (seal on one side), or 2 seals (seals on both sides)
Or easier yet, if your bearing number is still read-able, they can cross reference your bearing to a quality equivalent. The bearing numbers are printed very small, usually on the sides of either the inner or outer race.
However, if you stick with the better brands, you will still get a very high quality bearing, even though it is not made here in the states. Some of the higher quality bearings available from your local bearing distributor and/or the internet are General, Koyo, Nachi, Timken, Fafnir, Peer ..... all have a very high quality radial ball bearing available. Just beware, many of them also are forced to market the cheapy bearing too to compete in the junk bearing market, so most have a premium line of bearings, and they also have a junk line of bearings, just be sure that you are not getting their cheapy, because they are not much better than the $2 bearings that you will find all over the internet.
The cheapy bearings have come a long way and are somewhat ok quality wise, but there is still a substantial difference between a premium bearing from one of the forementioned, compared to the import cheapy. The Timken's, Generals, Koyos, etc... all own their own factories in the country of origin, so they control the quality assurance, the raw materials, the tooling, the amount and quality of grease installed, etc.... so you pay more, but you also get a much better bearing. The cheapy bearings are contracted out to the lowest bidder, and there is very little quality control throughout the manufacturing process and you basically get what you pay for.
I don't know where the OP is located, but aside from the internet, there are a couple of National bearing chains that could sell you a quality brand of bearing, Motion Industries and Applied Technologies have branches all over the US. You will just have to tell them to stay away from the garbage, and they should be able to sell you a quality bearing, they don't sell stuff cheap though, so just be prepared...... you will need to know the ID, OD, and width of the bearing, in addition to the seal or shield arrangement of the bearing. Most street bikes use seals and not shields, and the seal is the plastic/rubber insert that is on sides of the bearing in between the inner and outer race. The bearing either has no seals (open), 1 seal (seal on one side), or 2 seals (seals on both sides)
Or easier yet, if your bearing number is still read-able, they can cross reference your bearing to a quality equivalent. The bearing numbers are printed very small, usually on the sides of either the inner or outer race.
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#8
It is getting more difficult every day to find bearings made in USA, no matter who makes the package they come in.
I bought Timken axle bearings for my Crown Victoria, right on the package: Made In China. Back to the store they went...
You can`t trust the old standards anymore.
I bought Timken axle bearings for my Crown Victoria, right on the package: Made In China. Back to the store they went...
You can`t trust the old standards anymore.
Thank Wall Street and the cheap-*** buying public. Nobody wants to pay for domestic produced commodity-type goods.
I don't work in bearings, but in decades passed we used Timkin and Torrington. I still select Timkin when available, but would also consider SKF, *** (eff A gee), NSK. I don't have experience with their bearings, but GKN also makes good steel.
Last edited by cggorman; 07-02-2015 at 04:50 PM.
#9
I got a pair of All *****, made in china stamped on them. I have to admit, they were good looking bearings, double sealed both sides, and metal cages. Also had enough grease, something sorely lacking in most imported bearings I check. I'll still try to find American next time; if they're history, German, Japanese or Korean; those countries seem to put out quality stuff, too.
I got a new Sportster wheel a couple years ago, checked the new bearings that came installed, and they had plastic cages, barely any grease. I pulled them and put them in the trash where they belong, never turned on the road. I'd recommend popping a seal off (they snap back on easy) and checking inside. Most bearings I get I clean out and regrease with a known quality grease. I've even found a couple new bearings with no grease in them at all - I suspect the increase in wheel bearing failures in Harleys has more to do with inadequate lube than machining.
One more thing about new bearings; a lot of them just have a thin bead of grease on one side, and have never been turned. Put them on a bike like that, and you start out with dry metal contact till that little bit of grease finally spreads around. No matter how much grease, I always give the bearings a good spin before mounting them so they're completely lubed before they carry any weight.
Don't assume the factory gives you ready to use great bearings; check those things like your butt is riding on them. It is... Another reason I do all my own maintenance - think a dealer mech is going to spend time checking out new bearings? Or even old ones they re-use?
I got a new Sportster wheel a couple years ago, checked the new bearings that came installed, and they had plastic cages, barely any grease. I pulled them and put them in the trash where they belong, never turned on the road. I'd recommend popping a seal off (they snap back on easy) and checking inside. Most bearings I get I clean out and regrease with a known quality grease. I've even found a couple new bearings with no grease in them at all - I suspect the increase in wheel bearing failures in Harleys has more to do with inadequate lube than machining.
One more thing about new bearings; a lot of them just have a thin bead of grease on one side, and have never been turned. Put them on a bike like that, and you start out with dry metal contact till that little bit of grease finally spreads around. No matter how much grease, I always give the bearings a good spin before mounting them so they're completely lubed before they carry any weight.
Don't assume the factory gives you ready to use great bearings; check those things like your butt is riding on them. It is... Another reason I do all my own maintenance - think a dealer mech is going to spend time checking out new bearings? Or even old ones they re-use?
#10
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