Broken clutch cable @ threaded end in trans cover / Dyna
#11
Just for clarity, the EZ Clutch thingamajoogy does work with the SE Clutch spring?
#12
To be real clear on something I did not mention --> it may not be necessary to re-adjust the clutch pak and cable but it is safer. God knows I wouldn't skip on that easy adjustment when a blown clutch costs easily over 300$.
#13
Yes, but keep in mind that while it reduces effort, it also decreases the throw. So the clutch plates won't disengage as far. And if you "two-finger" clutch, the lever may bottom out on the fingers remaining on the grip, before the clutch disengages.
#14
I've never had that happen to mine! I thought that was why we adjust after install.They would not sell them if they were a hazard, but ya never know what a human can do to make money :-/
#15
Original clutch cable vs new clutch cable
Original 2001 FXDL clutch cable vs new HD OEM cable. Both cables have the same part# stamped on them which is 38643-00. The new cable is sold as a kit which is part# 38666-00 (kit= cable o-ring and plastic bushing for cable end @ lever). Pics attached for comparison. I've installed the new cable but after resizing the pic, it almost appears that whatever method was used the cut the teflon sheath, has also cut into the cable. It is like this on both ends. I'll have to look into this a little further. Hmmmmmmmmm........
New cable purchased on 2.25.2015 from HD and the packaging is dated 11.16.12.
Original/Stock: Bare cable with teflon insert inside of cable sheath
HD OEM replacement: Teflon sheath is part of the cable
New cable purchased on 2.25.2015 from HD and the packaging is dated 11.16.12.
Original/Stock: Bare cable with teflon insert inside of cable sheath
HD OEM replacement: Teflon sheath is part of the cable
Last edited by justmealwatts; 02-26-2015 at 11:47 AM.
#16
New clutch cable picture added
Picture of the other end of cable showing the end of the teflon sheath.
*** UPDATE 2.26.2015 *** 4 four calls later and the last being with a case manager @ HD Motor Company, I can already tell you that I'm tired of talking to people. He did say that he would forward my inquiry but there would be no way to contact me to let me know anything and yet it's funny that he and another person from the Motor Company took my name, ph# and address regarding the issue/inquiry. I told him that I would post the issue on one of the Harley Forums to see what kind of response and input I would get and he said " You can't Trust or believe half of the stuff that they say on those Forums".
I'd prefer not to have a new clutch cable from HD that's been nicked in the manufacturing process and the overall consensus is that if I think I have a defective cable, then I should return it for another one. Here's the deal, why should I return my cable for another one when more than likely the new cable will be just like the one I just bought but on the other hand, I just might be surprised to find that a new cable isn't hacked on like the one I just bought. I wonder just how many cables look just like this one ???
OK. I am up and running. Decide for yourself about the cable.
*** UPDATE 2.26.2015 *** 4 four calls later and the last being with a case manager @ HD Motor Company, I can already tell you that I'm tired of talking to people. He did say that he would forward my inquiry but there would be no way to contact me to let me know anything and yet it's funny that he and another person from the Motor Company took my name, ph# and address regarding the issue/inquiry. I told him that I would post the issue on one of the Harley Forums to see what kind of response and input I would get and he said " You can't Trust or believe half of the stuff that they say on those Forums".
I'd prefer not to have a new clutch cable from HD that's been nicked in the manufacturing process and the overall consensus is that if I think I have a defective cable, then I should return it for another one. Here's the deal, why should I return my cable for another one when more than likely the new cable will be just like the one I just bought but on the other hand, I just might be surprised to find that a new cable isn't hacked on like the one I just bought. I wonder just how many cables look just like this one ???
OK. I am up and running. Decide for yourself about the cable.
Last edited by justmealwatts; 02-26-2015 at 04:54 PM.
#17
Just my .2$ but wether your changing your cable because it snapped or just over stretched, or if you want to install the EZ pull clutch mechanism you would always start by removing the cable from the lever, or at the very least have the adjuster nut all the way loose because you will undoubtedly need to re-adjust as the last step in the process. Once the adjustment is loose there is no tension left to cause damage. Then I remove the clips and lay the cable flat on the ground.
I did however end up with the same result you show in your first pic by accidentally over-tightening the 9/16th bolt that goes into the bottom of the cover.
I did however end up with the same result you show in your first pic by accidentally over-tightening the 9/16th bolt that goes into the bottom of the cover.
I was told that I have to remove the lower muffler on my 2013 street bob, to remove the cover. Is it possible to do without removing the pipe. I can easily see all 6 bolts, though the lower two seem pretty restricted.
Thanks,
Roger
#18
This may not matter for people who don't do hole shots, or drag race, where it's the norm for experienced riders to keep at least two fingers around the grip at all times, while working the clutch with the other two.
Last edited by Warp Factor; 02-27-2015 at 05:11 AM.
#20
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You can adjust till the cows come home, but the bottom line is that you still won't get as much clutch disengagement for the same amount of lever travel, as you would stock.
This may not matter for people who don't do hole shots, or drag race, where it's the norm for experienced riders to keep at least two fingers around the grip at all times, while working the clutch with the other two.
This may not matter for people who don't do hole shots, or drag race, where it's the norm for experienced riders to keep at least two fingers around the grip at all times, while working the clutch with the other two.
There are riders that DO use 2 fingers on their clutch & brake levers. NONE of them ride Harleys. These riders race supercross or motocross. I haven't seen Harley on the motocross circuit since about 1975. Bike was a POS too. Yes, it really was!
Anyway, back to the reduced effort clutch pulley. Yes, they reduce the ultimate spring travel, but not enough to be problematic. They DO increase the friction zone, making moving off much easier for noobies. Believe it or not, clutch control is the biggest source of anxiety to a new rider. I installed the MRC unit on a Softail for a woman, many years ago (back in the mid 90's.) It made quite a difference in fatigue for her.
Then again, what do I know? I'm just your friendly, neighborhood~