Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I have the primary cover off (changing out the OEM self-adjusting primary chain tensioner for a Baker Armored Attitude Adjuster). So I used the opportunity to drill and tap the five weak, shallow clutch access cover screw-holes, and install some Helicoils.
These screw-holes always seem to fail sooner or later, as the very short steel screws tend to eat the soft aluminium (as we call it here in Australia ). This is particularly so as the clutch cover comes off for every oil change etc, leading to lots of stress over time on the (maybe) 8 rows of thread in the hole. I felt one going the last time I changed the oil, so put this little job on The List of Little Jobs...
And before you ask, yes, I have a torque wrench (four actually ) and yes I use it, every time I tighten anything, but this particular set of screws gives me the jitters. A relatively cheap, simple job that should lead to years of trouble-free service.
I have the primary cover off (changing out the OEM self-adjusting primary chain tensioner for a Baker Armored Attitude Adjuster). So I used the opportunity to drill and tap the five weak, shallow clutch access cover screw-holes, and install some Helicoils.
These screw-holes always seem to fail sooner or later, as the very short steel screws tend to eat the soft aluminium (as we call it here in Australia ). This is particularly so as the clutch cover comes off for every oil change etc, leading to lots of stress over time on the (maybe) 8 rows of thread in the hole. I felt one going the last time I changed the oil, so put this little job on The List of Little Jobs...
And before you ask, yes, I have a torque wrench (four actually ) and yes I use it, every time I tighten anything, but this particular set of screws gives me the jitters. A relatively cheap, simple job that should lead to years of trouble-free service.
I've done at least 17 primary oil changes on my '07. Never had a problem with the bolts or the bolt holes.
In preparation for installing the front Burley lowering springs in my bike this weekend, I gave the bike a good bath and installed a 1" shorter kickstand. I used the coin method that I saw on the forums to easily get the spring off. From there it was smooth sailing. Remove the clip, pull out the old kickstand, remove the locking mechanism and install it on the new kickstand. After that, install the kickstand back on the bike and install the spring. It took about an hour. It probably would have been a 10 minute job if my mom would not have called!!!
Installed my new LeatherPros V3s, quick detach side plates and sissy bar. It was a little more involved than I thought it would be because the mounting system for the V3s is slightly different than that of the V2s so I had to come up with some sleeve spacers in order to mount the side plates with the bags. All in all I think it looks great. Maybe it’s just me but I feel like the V3s mount much closer to the fender than previous versions giving the bike a slimmer profile.
I will say that mounting system for these bags is flat out phenomenal. That’s not to say that previous versions were bad, because that’s not true at all. They just really dialed up the fit and finish this go around. The detent in the mounting spacers is a simple yet genius way to ensure you can’t put the bags on wrong. The locking mechanism is much beefier which is huge for me. I travel on this bike a lot and I use these bags like suitcases going in and out of hotels. The constant removal of my old bags was really starting to wear out the keys/locks. Also the carrying/unlock strap is a big fat piece of leather instead of nylon like on the V1/V2…. they are just better in damn near every conceivable way.
Put the old front wheel on because the thick spoke replacement I put on was leaking air. Now I'm trying to decide if I convert the replacement to a tubed or just replace the front and back with something else. Not ecstatic about replacing them both but I went 16" on the back and the work to get it off and on is somewhat difficult now. Also, the replacement front went up to a 21", which I like, but is a narrow-glide wheel as the manufacturer didn't make a mid-glide size.
Put the old front wheel on because the thick spoke replacement I put on was leaking air. Now I'm trying to decide if I convert the replacement to a tubed or just replace the front and back with something else. Not ecstatic about replacing them both but I went 16" on the back and the work to get it off and on is somewhat difficult now. Also, the replacement front went up to a 21", which I like, but is a narrow-glide wheel as the manufacturer didn't make a mid-glide size.
Man that's a lot of money there . Wouldn't it be worth it to go to tubes???
Man that's a lot of money there . Wouldn't it be worth it to go to tubes???
But it also might be worth it to go to an 18" rear instead of the 16" and a mid-glide front as well. Looking at prices though I think I may just do the tube for now.
Went to the last ever Fast Friday at HRP. So many memories through life and its sad to see it go however, I did run my bike before they demolished it. First time staging a bike and let me say its a little different from a car haha.
Here's a couple pics and also an awesome framed photo I got.
04-03-2023, 07:44 PM
). This is particularly so as the clutch cover comes off for every oil change etc, leading to lots of stress over time on the (maybe) 8 rows of thread in the hole. I felt one going the last time I changed the oil, so put this little job on The List of Little Jobs...
