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Lubed the front master cylinder piston cap to keep the brake light from staying on. Easy fix, but we'll see how permanent. Didn't think of photos.
I had that issue and tried to fix it first with WD40, then I tried silicon lubricant, and then I tried a little wheel bearing grease. These three attempts all worked at first, but failed after some miles.
What finally fixed the issue for me was a good shot of electronic tuner cleaner/lubricant to both the Master Cylinder piston cap and the brake light switch under the lever.
I had that issue and tried to fix it first with WD40, then I tried silicon lubricant, and then I tried a little wheel bearing grease. These three attempts all worked at first, but failed after some miles.
What finally fixed the issue for me was a good shot of electronic tuner clear/lubricant to both the Master Cylinder piston cap and the brake light switch under the lever.
Nice! I'm just starting to have this issue with my front brake. I thought it might be in the lever. 👍
Nice! I'm just starting to have this issue with my front brake. I thought it might be in the lever. 👍
The issue is you have dirt around the Master Cylinder piston cap and/or the brake light switch. The piston is not extending fully, the lever is not fully releasing, and the lever does not have enough force to push in the brake light switch. Numerous people have reported that rebuilding the Master Cylinder will resolve the problem. I bought the Master Cylinder rebuild kit from HD, but I was able to resolve the issue without installing it. Electronic tuner cleaner/lubricant around the piston cap and the brake switch worked for me.
The issue is you have dirt around the Master Cylinder piston cap and/or the brake light switch. The piston is not extending fully, the lever is not fully releasing, and the lever does not have enough force to push in the brake light switch. Numerous people have reported that rebuilding the Master Cylinder will resolve the problem. I bought the Master Cylinder rebuild kit from HD, but I was able to resolve the issue without installing it. Electronic tuner cleaner/lubricant around the piston cap and the brake switch worked for me.
I first tried to use my Remoil gun lubricant but it only lasted a few days. Remoil (Remington Oil) used to have Teflon added but for some reason was removed and truly is no better or longer lasting than WD-40. With Teflon it was slicker than greased owl sh*t, stuck to what you put it to and could last for months, but sadly no more. I then tried rubber grease that I saw applied as a fix in a video and is working somewhat thus far, but not where I want or need it to be.
Rbartic your suggestion of electronics cleaner would have been next and is a great idea, I too think it could be either dirt build up, some kind of oxidation or corrosion around the piston cap hole, or even the plunger spring has compressed from wear and the fix is just in stretching the spring a bit. However I already ordered a rebuild kit because an old m/c cap leak destroyed some of the paint and it's a good opportunity to knock out the cosmetic work while removed for the rebuild.
The issue is you have dirt around the Master Cylinder piston cap and/or the brake light switch. The piston is not extending fully, the lever is not fully releasing, and the lever does not have enough force to push in the brake light switch. Numerous people have reported that rebuilding the Master Cylinder will resolve the problem. I bought the Master Cylinder rebuild kit from HD, but I was able to resolve the issue without installing it. Electronic tuner cleaner/lubricant around the piston cap and the brake switch worked for me.
Couldn’t get a new Pirelli Night dragon GT rear tire (out of stock EVERYWHERE) so I figured I’d give the Metzeler cruisetecs a try… funny enough they also say “Pirelli industries” in the fine print on the side. But before I changed them I finished out my plugged tire from the flat in great fashion! Also you can see how close the two plugs were and why I didn’t want to keep running the plugged tire.
08-12-2022, 08:09 AM
