Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Installed some Roland sands tracker grips. Not so much for looks, but for the feel. Heard they where a little slimmer than OEM Harley grips. And at a first feel it’s slight, but with gloves on and riding it’s a big difference! The set screws to hold the left side on make for a very solid feel, factory grip had a tendency to scoot slightly. Plus I added a little grease to the throttle side grip and re adjusted the throttle cables, very nice setup!
I miss the seating position on the old Road King. Floorboards were my friend with my cranky old knees.
The floorboard kit for a Dyna makes the new bike too cramped for my size and while my extended forward controls are comfortable, my legs need options.
So, I put the mid pegs back on. Looks a bit 'busy' to me (but it does the job.)
I had both pegs on mine for a while, thinking I would use the mid-pegs more than I did, so I just took them off, and use just the forwards. With stirrups, like yours, I have enough "room"/"space" to move my feet around, if I want, but I rarely do. It's nice to have the option of the mid-pegs, but like you said, it's a bit "busy". You may find, like I did, that you hardly ever use them, and may decide to remove them, anyway. It's your bike, though, so up to you what you want to do with it. Either way, enjoy it!!
P.S. Wish I could change mine from the Sundowner seat I have, since my wife doesn't want to ride with me anymore, to one like yours, with the backrest, and I could take off the passenger pad, and just go solo!
Accomplished over the winter and still not quite done (brake bleeding and clutch adjustment issues), but a nice pic that shows the new stance.
I dig those bmx style mini boards! Any advice on a good tool to bleed my brakes? I'm about to start tackling a radial caliper swap on my rear. This is probably going to sound stupid but is bleeding the brakes on the bike the same as a car?
I dig those bmx style mini boards! Any advice on a good tool to bleed my brakes? I'm about to start tackling a radial caliper swap on my rear. This is probably going to sound stupid but is bleeding the brakes on the bike the same as a car?
Funny, you ask. I HATE bleeding the brakes on Harley's. I have had good luck using a Mity Vac to pull the fluid out from the caliper but this time I installed SpeedBleeders which I have also had good luck with. I even bought the bag that goes with the SpeedBleeders and it worked slick as snot; however, I still have no brakes. In my case, there's more going on though. New master, new right caliper, all new lines, and block...there is air somewhere but I can't find it. The short answer to your question though is yes, bleeding brakes are the same concept as a car.
When I put my FXDC to bed for the winter I knew there was an occasional fuel drip from the quick disconnect so I went ahead and replaced the orings in it (used Fuel Tool part) and also purchased a new ss fuel line. Put the tank on and fuel flows out the connect when it hit the key and pump goes on....unhook disconnect and no leaks so looks like I will replace the oring AGAIN in the female disconnect that seals against the male. Lots of good threads on this and thought I was careful and didn't pinch the oring and damage it but will be more careful and use more lube....didn't take long to pull the tank back off and this time I am NOT going to use the orings from Fuel Tool...will use JD or McMaster-Carr
i used the o-rings from this seller on ebay. no trouble with leaking
Funny, you ask. I HATE bleeding the brakes on Harley's. I have had good luck using a Mity Vac to pull the fluid out from the caliper but this time I installed SpeedBleeders which I have also had good luck with. I even bought the bag that goes with the SpeedBleeders and it worked slick as snot; however, I still have no brakes. In my case, there's more going on though. New master, new right caliper, all new lines, and block...there is air somewhere but I can't find it. The short answer to your question though is yes, bleeding brakes are the same concept as a car.
Thanks. I'm replacing my caliper and hoping I don't have to make a new brake line.
Funny, you ask. I HATE bleeding the brakes on Harley's. I have had good luck using a Mity Vac to pull the fluid out from the caliper but this time I installed SpeedBleeders which I have also had good luck with. I even bought the bag that goes with the SpeedBleeders and it worked slick as snot; however, I still have no brakes. In my case, there's more going on though. New master, new right caliper, all new lines, and block...there is air somewhere but I can't find it. The short answer to your question though is yes, bleeding brakes are the same concept as a car.
I've used vacuum devices to draw the fluid through the system to the caliper but you still need to bleed them. There is no way around it... Once bled you'll be fine...
All of the above is great brake bleeding advice. I have a handheld MityVac pump and the only thing I use it for anymore is sucking the juice out of the masters before a flush/bleed procedure. I always bleed front and rear just like a car, but it’s easier because you can do it yourself. The rear is simple, one hand for pumping the rear lever, the other for opening and closing the bleed screw. The front is the same, but I have to straddle the front tire, and since I have long arms I’m able to open and close bleeder while pumping the front lever. My bike only has a single disk up front. I put my bleeder bottle in a riding boot so it doesn’t fall over and spill.
One trick to manually bleeding brakes that not everyone does is having your “bleed tube/vinyl tubing” from the bleeder to a jar or bottle with brake fluid in the bottom with the tubing submerged so no air can enter the system through the bleeder.
I really wanted to love my MityVac for simple, one person brake bleeding, but I’m not a fan. There’s too many fittings involved to actually introduce air into the system during bleeding.
Is this the same for ABS equipped models or do I have to get it to the dealer as some have suggested elsewhere to use their computer to belled the ABS system? I have a vacuum canister system that used compressed air to create the vacuum into a storage canister and once connected, you simply open the bleeders and keep the reservoir topped off while you go from furthest to closest (to the master) bleeder. Maybe I should get speed bleeders too...
04-25-2022, 10:38 AM
