What did you do to your Dyna today?
07-21-2021, 09:03 AM
Road Master
I'm hitting my head against the wall right now.
About a month back I started noticing vibration on decel, felt like something loose. I added a couple washers as shims to the front mount for the heck of it, and it made an immediate difference. Since I have 31K on the bike, I decided to replace both front & rear mounts with new OEM. It's better, but I still have an vibration on decel that wasn't there before. Accel and cruising are great, it's only when coming back down.
For testing purposes, at 40mph I pull in the clutch and coast, and it's not smooth. Next, I cut the engine at 40mph, and then the bike is smooth as butter. This eliminates tire/wheel issues.
Next, I put a couple washers back in to shim the front mount. This alone made it about 80% better. But I have this annoying vibration when decelerating, only at certain parts of the RPM range. This wasn't there with the old mounts until a month ago. I'm not sure what's next. It's really frustrating that I can't get this back to the way it used to ride with the original OEM mounts.
About a month back I started noticing vibration on decel, felt like something loose. I added a couple washers as shims to the front mount for the heck of it, and it made an immediate difference. Since I have 31K on the bike, I decided to replace both front & rear mounts with new OEM. It's better, but I still have an vibration on decel that wasn't there before. Accel and cruising are great, it's only when coming back down.
For testing purposes, at 40mph I pull in the clutch and coast, and it's not smooth. Next, I cut the engine at 40mph, and then the bike is smooth as butter. This eliminates tire/wheel issues.
Next, I put a couple washers back in to shim the front mount. This alone made it about 80% better. But I have this annoying vibration when decelerating, only at certain parts of the RPM range. This wasn't there with the old mounts until a month ago. I'm not sure what's next. It's really frustrating that I can't get this back to the way it used to ride with the original OEM mounts.
Have you tried the vibration isolation procedure? Hold the bike upright, like in a chock, loosen the motor mount and isolator bolts, idle for 10 seconds, shut the motor off and keeping it upright torque the bolts. It's resolved some vibration issues for me. I'm think with new mounts they are going to wear in over a few hundred miles and may need to be readjusted, maybe more than once.
The following users liked this post:
snake_eyes (07-21-2021)
07-21-2021, 09:57 AM
Grand HDF Member
I'm hitting my head against the wall right now.
About a month back I started noticing vibration on decel, felt like something loose. I added a couple washers as shims to the front mount for the heck of it, and it made an immediate difference. Since I have 31K on the bike, I decided to replace both front & rear mounts with new OEM. It's better, but I still have an vibration on decel that wasn't there before. Accel and cruising are great, it's only when coming back down.
For testing purposes, at 40mph I pull in the clutch and coast, and it's not smooth. Next, I cut the engine at 40mph, and then the bike is smooth as butter. This eliminates tire/wheel issues.
Next, I put a couple washers back in to shim the front mount. This alone made it about 80% better. But I have this annoying vibration when decelerating, only at certain parts of the RPM range. This wasn't there with the old mounts until a month ago. I'm not sure what's next. It's really frustrating that I can't get this back to the way it used to ride with the original OEM mounts.
About a month back I started noticing vibration on decel, felt like something loose. I added a couple washers as shims to the front mount for the heck of it, and it made an immediate difference. Since I have 31K on the bike, I decided to replace both front & rear mounts with new OEM. It's better, but I still have an vibration on decel that wasn't there before. Accel and cruising are great, it's only when coming back down.
For testing purposes, at 40mph I pull in the clutch and coast, and it's not smooth. Next, I cut the engine at 40mph, and then the bike is smooth as butter. This eliminates tire/wheel issues.
Next, I put a couple washers back in to shim the front mount. This alone made it about 80% better. But I have this annoying vibration when decelerating, only at certain parts of the RPM range. This wasn't there with the old mounts until a month ago. I'm not sure what's next. It's really frustrating that I can't get this back to the way it used to ride with the original OEM mounts.
07-21-2021, 10:50 AM
Grand HDF Member
07-21-2021, 12:22 PM
Road Master
Can the isolation procedure be done with the bike on a lift? I tried to do it with the bike on the ground, but I don't have a way of keeping the bike level while tightening the bolts by myself. I will need a friend to come over and sit on the bike to keep it level and try again.
07-21-2021, 02:19 PM
Grand HDF Member
If you are replacing the entire basket, yes. If only the friction plates, spring, and/or spring plate, no.
The following users liked this post:
Crazy (07-21-2021)
07-21-2021, 05:02 PM
Grand HDF Member
I'm hitting my head against the wall right now.
About a month back I started noticing vibration on decel, felt like something loose. I added a couple washers as shims to the front mount for the heck of it, and it made an immediate difference. Since I have 31K on the bike, I decided to replace both front & rear mounts with new OEM. It's better, but I still have an vibration on decel that wasn't there before. Accel and cruising are great, it's only when coming back down.
For testing purposes, at 40mph I pull in the clutch and coast, and it's not smooth. Next, I cut the engine at 40mph, and then the bike is smooth as butter. This eliminates tire/wheel issues.
Next, I put a couple washers back in to shim the front mount. This alone made it about 80% better. But I have this annoying vibration when decelerating, only at certain parts of the RPM range. This wasn't there with the old mounts until a month ago. I'm not sure what's next. It's really frustrating that I can't get this back to the way it used to ride with the original OEM mounts.
About a month back I started noticing vibration on decel, felt like something loose. I added a couple washers as shims to the front mount for the heck of it, and it made an immediate difference. Since I have 31K on the bike, I decided to replace both front & rear mounts with new OEM. It's better, but I still have an vibration on decel that wasn't there before. Accel and cruising are great, it's only when coming back down.
For testing purposes, at 40mph I pull in the clutch and coast, and it's not smooth. Next, I cut the engine at 40mph, and then the bike is smooth as butter. This eliminates tire/wheel issues.
Next, I put a couple washers back in to shim the front mount. This alone made it about 80% better. But I have this annoying vibration when decelerating, only at certain parts of the RPM range. This wasn't there with the old mounts until a month ago. I'm not sure what's next. It's really frustrating that I can't get this back to the way it used to ride with the original OEM mounts.
My 2012 FXDC does that on occasion. "at 40mph I pull in the clutch and coast, and it's not smooth. Next, I cut the engine at 40mph, and then the bike is smooth as butter" Exactly this. What's happening with mine is that the ECM keeps the idle up around 1,700 or 1,800 while I'm coasting for some weird reason. When it happens it doesn't matter if the engine is completely warmed up or not. The idle speed only drops down to 1K when I get the bike to a complete stop. That elevated RPM really seems to be a sweet spot for overwhelming the mounts and getting the engine jumping around. Once the idle speed drops back to 1K it smooths right out.
Good Luck.
The following users liked this post:
Bluesrider.df (07-21-2021)
07-21-2021, 05:55 PM
Road Master
Can the isolation procedure be done with the bike on a lift? I tried to do it with the bike on the ground, but I don't have a way of keeping the bike level while tightening the bolts by myself. I will need a friend to come over and sit on the bike to keep it level and try again.
The following users liked this post:
Bluesrider.df (07-21-2021)
07-21-2021, 06:50 PM
Cruiser
On the front mount, support the engine and frame so that the bike is upright and the bolts holding the mount to the engine are lined up perfectly and are hand tight. With no bolts between the frame and the mount see if there is a gap between the mount and the frame. If there is a gap fill it with washers so that when you insert the frame/mount bolts they can be started by hand. This avoids both pre-tensioning the mount or pre-compressing the mount and allows the greatest amount of travel. Now torque all of the bolts.
The following users liked this post:
Bluesrider.df (07-21-2021)
07-21-2021, 07:48 PM
Grand HDF Member
On the front mount, support the engine and frame so that the bike is upright and the bolts holding the mount to the engine are lined up perfectly and are hand tight. With no bolts between the frame and the mount see if there is a gap between the mount and the frame. If there is a gap fill it with washers so that when you insert the frame/mount bolts they can be started by hand. This avoids both pre-tensioning the mount or pre-compressing the mount and allows the greatest amount of travel. Now torque all of the bolts.
