A buddy of mine told me about this product and I got one ordered to prevent pulley bolts from backing out though.
https://www.hughshandbuilt.com/produ...t-lock-system/

 

Brake rotor washers swapped over now no rattling. And turns out I was right the voltage regulator was unplugged. No telling how I managed to do it but oh well it's fixed. Hoping tomorow is beautiful so I can get some good pics. And looks like my new front end and rear shocks should be in tomorrow. But I've got a set of tins being dropped off later in the week for paint so mine will just have to wait a couple weeks. Have to make some money back to pay off all that purchase lol.

 

Or just use the old fashioned way......safety wire

 

Talking to my cousin Tammy this morning who owns an upholstery shop about doing my seat in leather with a double stitch using silver thread. Waiting on a quote.

 

A buddy of mine mentioned that. I imagine the holes are easier to drill with the 12 point bolts. What size bit do you use?

 

#55 .050" dia. 450 RPM lots of oil, and let the drill cut at it's own pace....about 4 minutes per hole.

It's more tuff than hard. ARP 18-8 (work hardened) .. 450 stainless or 17-4.... all 170 PSI are tuff and machine with HSS but you have to drill carefully / use oil / and don't over speed.

I drill and wire all rotor / sprocket and brake caliper mounting bolts.

These bolts are never really stressed and can be reused if installed correctly. The sprocket failures are because the bolts loosen then sprocket starts to slip back and forth, this induces a shear failure. Between the bolt shoulder being wasted and the sprocket hole oversized there is a lot of play for the parts to move.

Does anyone really believe a 3/8 dia. bolt can be over tightened / stretched in aluminum to the point of 1 time use?

I believe the factory says replace because if they loosened then they could have been stressed by the shear forces induced by the two parts twisting back and forth accelerating and braking / downshifting over and over and the user might not see the signs.

 

I suspect the replacement policy is partly liability mitigation and partly service part condition.

The service part has a pre-applied lock patch and instructing techs to apply threadlocker to a used bolt in a safety critical application opens them up to human error and liability.

Just my take from having worked on the manufacturing end of this sort of thing.

 

I fixed it for ya

Still a valid question, along with 5/16", but the last few posts have been about Pulley Bolts ... stay consistent with your references

 

Very good point also! Thanks

My bad.....just 9 months and I've already forgot bolt sizes.....Thank you also

 

I get that... Owned 76 bikes over the past 50 years, and seven have been Harleys. All the rest were metric. Grew up working on American cars, and was a mechanic for several years, all SAE. Today, I just grab a socket or wrench that looks right, and most of the time, I get close enough to do the work. Thank God we don't have to fool with Whitworth sizes. Trick or Treat, and don't eat too much candy. tp