Oh, yea. Seeing that got my full attention. I knew something was wrong; I know this bike. She moves or feels wrong, it's full stop.


That is not a bad idea at all; but I believe something is binding the pivot shaft. When I press fit the pivot bearing and the interference fit left spacer they felt tight; I'd expected a bit of a slop fit; I've done it before, I think the problem is there. I follow the SM, but once I triked her, I'm out in the tall grass on some of these adjustments I'm making. It will be a good record for those that follow one day


I use a ColorRite vivid black touch up pen; it won't come off unless you want it to. I knew she felt off. Next corner I turned off to check her. A Dyna has certain vibes, and when it's wrong you need to find out why!

 

Missed still owning it and trying to figure a way to buy it back as it's still sitting stripped naked on the dealer floor. Love love love my RG but having a lighter bike sometimes is nice also. Still have a Vulcan 750 but don't trust it and it has no soul.

 

Did you check to make sure the flanges for the seals were not warped?

 

 

So you're going to check and/or replace the engine temperature sensor next?

 

I know some of the early EFI bikes had a TSB recommending a change to the injectors. I think they went to a wider spray pattern. Not sure what the symptoms were that drove that change. Possibly erratic idle? As the engine warms, fuel atomization improves, which may cause a higher idle in engines with less ideal spray patterns. Just speculating...

 

I was reading about that, but if my bike was running fine before with the injectors that are in this bike wouldn't that rule that issue out? Maybe I need to clean and/or replace the injectors. I'm just checking things one at a time, checking off the list. I read that I would have to reflash the ECM if I swapped to the new style injectors. I have a fuel pack that "piggybacks" the ECM. I'm guessing that would still have to take the bike to the shop to have them reprogram the stock ECM for the new style injectors.

Forgive me if I dont know what the hell I'm talking about.

Next up: check for intake leaks.

 

All good questions. I agree that it seems unlikely if the bike used to run fine. I can't answer the other questions, but I'm sure we have members that have done this who would know for sure.

Oh, since the issue seems limited to a hot engine, be sure to check for leaks after the engine gets up to temp. Maybe ride it for a while beforehand to get the idle speed in the problem range?

 

bike only idles high after coming to a stop after cruising at around 50 -60 on the highway, As I am approaching a red light for example it will be idling high. The idle will come down to a normal idle after approximately 15 seconds, maybe more. Also it does not do it all the time while the engine is hot, mostly just after a 50-60mph cruise.

by the time I were to test for intake leaks on the bike when it was warmed up it would have settled back to a normal idle. I was thinking about duct taping the throttle grip to give it partial throttle while checking for intake leaks, after the bike has warmed up. Maybe it only leaks when it is at a higher throttle when there is extra suction going on at the intake seals.